Species :
The following 28 species are recognized as being valid.
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Japalura andersoniana Annandale, 1905
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Japalura batangensis Li et al., 2001
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Japalura brevicauda Manthey, Denzer, Hou & Wang, 2012
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Japalura brevipes Gressitt, 1936
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Japalura chapaensis Bourret, 1937
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Japalura dasi (Shah & Kästle, 2002)
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Japalura dymondi (Boulenger, 1906)
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Japalura fasciata Mertens, 1926
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Japalura flaviceps Barbour & Dunn, 1919
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Japalura grahami (Stejneger, 1924)
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Japalura hamptoni M.A. Smith, 1935
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Japalura kaulbacki M.A. Smith, 1937 = Pseudocalotes kingdonwardi
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Japalura kumaonensis (Annandale, 1907)
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Japalura luei Ota, Chen & Shang, 1998
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Japalura major (Jerdon, 1870)
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Japalura makii Ota, 1989
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Japalura micangshanensis Song, 1987
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Japalura otai Mahony, 2009[2]
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Japalura planidorsata Jerdon, 1870
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Japalura polygonata (Hallowell, 1861)
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Japalura sagittifera M.A. Smith, 1940
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Japalura splendida Barbour & Dunn, 1919
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Japalura swinhonis Günther, 1864
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Japalura tricarinata (Blyth, 1853)
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Japalura varcoae (Boulenger, 1918)
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Japalura variegata Gray, 1853
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Japalura yulongensis Manthey, Denzer, Hou & Wang, 2012
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Japalura yunnanensis Anderson, 1878
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Japalura zhaoermii Goa & Hou, 2002
1- Japalura splendida
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ploi. The Japalura Tree Dragon also called Banana Split Mountain Lizard, Chinese Tree Dragon, Dragon Agama, or Neon Tree Dragon, Japalura splendida is an agamid lizard found in southwestern China in the provinces of Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, Gansu, and Henan, and also in the southeast of Tibet.
In captivity the Japalura tree dragon requires a warm, humid environment. They are an active and arboreal species, and should only be kept in a medium to large size vivarium, with plenty of limbs and ledges in which to seek elevation. They can be fed on a variety of domestically bred insects, and need a bowl of water to bathe in. The Japalura tree dragon, like many arboreal lizard species, will drink from water droplets found on leaves, often from rain or dew, so they will require a drip or misting system to stimulate this in captivity. In the wild, these lizards will also bask to absorb heat and ultraviolet radiation from the sun, so sufficient lighting should be provided in a captive environment to replicate this. Tree dragons are typically not territorial towards other lizards, although males should never be kept together, and they are very dominant feeders due to their voracious appetite, which may present additional hassles when they are kept in a communal setting. They are not aggressive towards humans, however, they may be skittish and attempt to flee. This make make handling a difficulty due to their speed.
Banana Split Mountain Lizard
Banana-split Tree Dragon, Japalura splendida
Scientific classification :
Kingdom:Animalia
Phylum:Chordata
Subphylum:Vertebrata
Class:Reptilia
Order:Squamata
Suborder:Iguania
Family:Agamidae
Subfamily:Draconinae
Genus:Japalura
Species:J. splendida
Binomial name :
Japalura splendida
Barbour & Dunn, 1919
Purchasing a Japalura Splendida
The Japalura is only recently hitting pet stores in the United States as of the addition to this article (June 2009) and many pet stores do not carry care sheets for this particular type of reptile because little is known about them. However, the care of the Japalura is similar to that of the Chinese Water Dragon[1] (a member of the Physignatus genus). When purchasing a Japalura, look for the following signs of health:
-Body weight to size. Does the lizard look emaciated or well fed?
-Make sure there are no skin disfigurements or wounds, such as bite marks.
-The lizard's eyes should be clear, wide open, and not half closed or sunken into the head.
-Look for mites. Lizards can carry these parasites, and they are difficult to exterminate as they tend to hide beneath the scales of the reptile.
-Examine the lizard's bone structure for any abnormalities in the tail, spine or pelvis which may indicate prior injury or a calcium deficiency.
-Observe the lizard to be sure it can effectively climb and walk in its habitat.
-If possible, have a fecal sample taken to the local herpetologist to check for any parasites. Many of the lizards available at pet stores are not captive bred and have been taken from the wild. Therefore, they may have parasites in the intestinal tract.
You can hold them, though they do tend to be skittish. Exercise caution when trying to catch one to pick it up as the tail can come detached and it does not grow back. They generally do not bite unless stressed or defending their eggs.
Housing and Habitat :
In the wild, Japaluras reside in humid, temperate jungles. To replicate this environment, purchase or make a terrarium that will accommodate the reptile's growth into adulthood. The Japalura can reportedly grow 8 to 16 inches in length (including the tail).[2] A 30x12x17 inch terrarium or larger is recommended. Provide plenty of limbs wide enough for the lizard to bask on and plants (live or artificial) for the Japalura to climb on or hide within. Hiding places are essential as this type of lizard can be timid and may injure itself by running into the glass to flee.
The substrate (bedding) should be a natural material conducive to promoting humidity such as coconut husk bricks commonly found in pet stores. Some reptile enthusiasts use carpeting made specifically for terrariums. Another option is green moss, also available at pet stores. Regardless, follow the instructions for replacement and/or cleaning of the substrate to maintain the lizard's health and to minimize the contact with its own feces. Never use dirt, sand, or gravel because the lizard can ingest it during feeding, and its intestines may become impacted.
Ultraviolet light is needed for the lizard to properly synthesize vitamin D. In the wild, UVB rays are naturally provided by the sun, and in a captive environment, is needed to prevent the lizard from developing any calcium deficiency (Metabolic Bone Disease). Also, dust the lizard's prey with a calcium supplement specifically for reptiles as indicated by the manufacturer. Purchase an appropriate heat lamp and UVB bulb for your reptile. Keep a thermometer in the terrarium to monitor the temperature. The mid to upper 70s (23 - 26 Celsius) is fine and in the upper section of the enclosure, near the heat lamp, the temperature can range from the lower to mid 80s (27 - 30 Celsius).
The Japalura requires humidity. This can be accomplished by providing a humidifier appropriate for the terrarium, of which there are several available on the market. Another less expensive option is to mist the cage and reptile three times daily. The humidity helps the lizard shed its skin. A hygrometer will show whether the proper humidity level is being maintained or not.
Provide a large water dish for the lizard to bathe in. This will need to be changed and sanitized regularly as the Japalura may defecate in the water.
Quarantine any new reptile you acquire for a period of time so that you can examine it for any signs of ill health or parasites. Check that the feces are not runny, bloody, or contain worms.
Feeding :
Baby Japaluras will eat small termites, fruit flies, and waxworms. Adults will eat superworms, earthworms, crickets, flies, and waxworms. Note that crickets do bite and it is highly recommended that they be removed from the terrarium after the lizard has eaten its fill. Also, feed "gut-loaded" insects, insects that have been fed a highly nutritious diet as that ensures those nutrients will be passed to the lizard. Dusting with a calcium supplement is recommended. Follow the guidelines on the supplement and only use a supplement designated for reptiles.
Determining Sex :
The easiest way to determine the sex of even young Japaluras is the check the black markings running down the center of their back. On the male, it will take the form of an unbroken line running the length of their back; on the female it will be broken up into a series of diamonds or squares with green in between. Additionally, mature males will sport a small crest running from the back of their head and covering the back of their neck. They also have a larger dewlap.[3]
Breeding :
Japaluras lay eggs in nests in late May to June which will hatch in mid July to August in shallow nests with an average of 5 to 7 eggs per nest. Due to the low price on the market currently for the Japaluras, they are not favored by commercial breeders, and little more is known about their breeding.[4]
Japalura splendida top view, male
Video
For the external links , refrences click here to read the full wikipedia article
Japalura Splendida
Other websites :
- www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/japalura-splendida-questions.313511/
- www.scribd.com/doc/253856101/Care-Sheet-Neon-Tree-Dragon-Japalura-Splendida
- thereptilereport.com/chinese-tree-dragon-caresheet/
- www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=166433
Japalura Splendida
courtesy to : www.reptilecity.com
Dragon Agama (adults)
Quantity in Basket: None
Code: DA
Price: $29.99
Shipping Weight: 1.00 pounds
Chinese Tree Dragon:
Part of the genus agama and a relative of the water dragons, which is a species of lizard. They are found in high-elevated tropical climates within China, most commonly in the treetops or upon the trunks. Hatchlings are about an inch long and adults reach lengths of eight inches. Because of this, they make great pets. They are also easy to care for because they don't require a complicated diet, and they are purely insectivores. The best part, of course, is their great looks.
Enclosure Requirements:
Since Tree Dragons don't get that big, adults are 8" long, you don't need a huge amount of space for them. A 20-gallon "high" aquarium, 24"x12"x16", would be a suitable enclosure for up to 4 adults, 3 females and 1 male. Four baby to sub-adult Tree Dragons can easily be housed in a 10-gallon aquarium, 20"x10"x12". Though I have heard that multiple males can live in the same cage if the enclosure is big enough and there is enough hiding space, I don't recommend housing more than 1 male per cage. Two males have never successfully lived together in any of the reptile species.
Other enclosure necessities: It is necessary that you include a lot of artificial plants and other such cover. Without plants and places to hide, your tree dragons will be very stressed out. Stress in any animal can lead to sickness and even death. I've been told, though I don't try it myself, that you can house several males in the same cage together so long as you have two requirements; one, you have a large enough cage. Two, you have an ample amount of hiding spaces that it is likely they might never see each other. Don't forget tree dragons really enjoy climbing. This means content tree dragons have branches, vines and/or hanging plants. All of these extra accessories will add to the overall display to the enclosure and to the enclosure's ability to retain moisture for added humidity.
Substrate:
No one substrate is the best, each has its own good qualities and its bad qualities. However, there are some substrates that aren't good, some can be downright poisonous to animals both of those categories should be avoided. The substrates that should be avoided are the dry, dusty substrates such as sand and wood chips or shavings. Because the Splendidas require such a high level of humidity they need a substrate that effectively holds water. My personal favorite is cypress mulch; it's inexpensive and does a great job at retaining humidity. Unfortunately it could end up being ingested when the dragons hunt their crickets.
Heating/Lighting Requirements:
Tree Dragons enjoy almost room temperature weather, the ideal basking temp is 75°-80° Fahrenheit. The ambient temperature should be from the low to mid 70's. To reach these temperatures all you would really need is an ultraviolet (UV) ray light bulb. However, tree dragons don't require extreme amounts of UV Rays, only 7% or so. These characteristics make them pretty easy and inexpensive to care for.
Humidity Requirements:
Splendidas enjoy and thrive in a very humid environment. To meet such needs you would require large water dishes as well as multiple spray bottle mistings per day. Of course, it would certainly help to add natural and/or artificial plants and a layer of moss to the bedding. Not only is it aesthetically pleasing but it also aids in keeping up humidity levels. If you wanted to get real fancy but isn't necessary unless your humidity levels aren't high enough; you could add a misting system.
Diet:
Fortunately for keepers, Chinese Tree Dragons are purely insectivores. It is a good idea to feed them a variety of prey items that are dusted or "gutloaded" with calcium, because without the calcium supplements they won't be getting the proper nutrients. Feed them about 5-8 appropriate-sized (no wider than their mouth) prey items every day. A variety would be (this short list is not all-inclusive) crickets, mealworms, cockroaches, etc. It isn't suggested that you feed them wax worms on a regular basis as it can lead to obesity.
Chinese Tree Dragon - Japalura Splendida
Having just aquired a group of these stunning little lizards I thought it was essential they had a section within our website!
The chinese Tree Dragon (Japalura Splendida) is a stunning little lizard that ticks all the boxes for what makes an all round good terrarium lizard. They are a small lizard growing to around 15cm and strikingly coloured with deep blacks, vibrant almost neon green and all shades in between!
Not much is known about these lizards as captive pets, they are kept and bred successfully by hobbiests in Germany who have gleamed much of their knowledge from chinese literarature on them.
They originate from south west China, heres a few care hints :
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Temperature required: dont let them get too hot, keep them cool compared to other reptiles- around 24'c.
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UVB: 5% or 2%
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Humidity: 50% - 90%
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Running water is ideal for raising humidity, the dragons also like to lay in the running water
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Diet: small crickets, mealworms, waxworms.
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Arboreal terrarium is preferred with a high humidity, running water and well misted at least twice a a day.
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Deep substrate of coco humus or peat as the gravid females will excavate a burrow to deposit eggs.
- ASIA Species :
1-Acanthosaura Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4
5- Calotes Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
8- Cophotis
9- Physignathus - ( Physignathus cocincinus - Chinese water dragon ). Part : 1 2 3 4
10- Dendragama
11- Draco ( Gliding Lizards ) Click here
12-Gonocephalus Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
13-Harpesaurus
14-Hydrosaurus Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
15-Hypsicalotes
16-Japalura Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
17-Lophocalotes
18-Leiolepis ( butterfly lizards ) Part 1 Part 2
19-Laudakia
21-Mictopholis
22-Otocryptis
24-Sinai agama (Pseudotrapelus sinaitus)
25-Phrynocephalus Part 1 Part 2
26-Physignathus ( Chinese water dragon (Physignathus cocincinus) Click here )
28-Ptyctolaemus
29-Salea
30-Sarada
31-Sitana
32-Uromasticinae ( Uromastyx - Saara )
33- Trapelus
Agamidae : Introduction
Agamidae Species : Africa - Asia - Australia & Papua new guinea
- ASIA Species :
1-Acanthosaura Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4
5- Calotes Part 1 Part 2 Part 3
8- Cophotis
9- Physignathus - ( Physignathus cocincinus - Chinese water dragon ). Part : 1 2 3 4
10- Dendragama
11- Draco ( Gliding Lizards ) Click here
12-Gonocephalus Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
13-Harpesaurus
14-Hydrosaurus Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
15-Hypsicalotes
16-Japalura Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
17-Lophocalotes
18-Leiolepis ( butterfly lizards ) Part 1 Part 2
19-Laudakia
21-Mictopholis
22-Otocryptis
24-Sinai agama (Pseudotrapelus sinaitus)
25-Phrynocephalus Part 1 Part 2
26-Physignathus ( Chinese water dragon (Physignathus cocincinus) Click here )
28-Ptyctolaemus
29-Salea
30-Sarada
31-Sitana
32-Uromasticinae ( Uromastyx - Saara )
33- Trapelus