Family Lacertidae :
The Lacertidae are the family of the wall lizards, true lizards, or sometimes simply lacertas, which are native to Europe, Africa, and Asia. The group includes the genus Lacerta, which contains some of the most commonly seen lizard species in Europe. It is a diverse family with at least 300 species in 39 genera.
And due to that this family is very large only those with unsual or exotic shape or colors will be mentioned here
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia :
The Lacertidae are the family of the wall lizards, true lizards, or sometimes simply lacertas, which are native to Europe, Africa, and Asia. The group includes the genus Lacerta, which contains some of the most commonly seen lizard species in Europe. It is a diverse family with at least 300 species in 39 genera.
Lacertids
Temporal range: Oligocene–present, 24–0 Ma
Sand lizard
Scientific classification :
Kingdom:Animalia
Phylum:Chordata
Class:Reptilia
Order:Squamata
Superfamily:Lacertoidea
Family:Lacertidae
Oppel, 1811
Type species :
Lacerta agilis
Linnaeus, 1758
Habitat :
The European and Mediterranean species live mainly in forest and scrub habitats.[1] Eremias and Ophisops species replace these in the grassland and desert habitats of Asia. African species usually live in rocky, arid areas. Holaspis is one of the few arboreal lacertids, and its single species, Holaspis guentheri, is a glider (although apparently a poor one), using its broad tail and flattened body as an aerofoil.[2]
Description :
Lacertids are small or medium-sized lizards. Most species are less than 9 cm long, excluding the tail, although the largest living species, Gallotia stehlini, reaches 46 cm, and some extinct forms were larger still. They are primarily insectivorous.[1] An exception is Meroles anchietae, one of the few wall lizards that regularly eat seeds – an appropriate food for a lizard of the harsh Namib Desert.
Lacertids are remarkably similar in form, with slender bodies and long tails, but have highly varied patterns and colours, even within the same species. Their scales are large on the head, which often also has osteoderms, small and granular on the back, and rectangular on the underside. Most species are sexually dimorphic, with the males and females having different patterns.[1]
At least eight species from the Caucasus are parthenogenetic,[3][4] and three species give birth to live young, including the viviparous lizard, Zootoca vivipara.[1]
Classification :
The classification into subfamilies and tribes below follows one presented by Arnold et al., 2007, based on their phylogenetic analysis.[5]
Family Lacertidae
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Subfamily Gallotiinae
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Genus Gallotia (eight species)
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Genus Psammodromus (six species)
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Subfamily Lacertinae
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Tribe Eremiadini
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Genus Acanthodactylus (40 species)
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Genus Adolfus (four species)
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Genus Atlantolacerta (1 species)
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Genus Australolacerta (two species)
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Genus Congolacerta (two species)
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Genus Eremias (29 species)
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Genus Gastropholis (4 species)
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Genus Heliobolus (4 species)
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Genus Holaspis (2 species)
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Genus Ichnotropis (7 species)
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Genus Latastia (10 species)
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Genus Meroles (seven species)
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Genus Mesalina (13 species)
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Genus Nucras (eight species)
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Genus Ophisops (eight species)
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Genus Pedioplanis (10 species)
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Genus Philochortus (6 species)
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Genus Poromera (1 species)
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Genus Pseuderemias (7 species)
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Genus Scapteira
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Genus Tropidosaura (4 species)
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Tribe Lacertini
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Genus Algyroides (five species)
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Genus Anatololacerta
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Genus Dalmatolacerta
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Genus Darevskia (22 species)
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Genus Dinarolacerta
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Genus Hellenolacerta
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Genus Iberolacerta (8 species)
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Genus Iranolacerta
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Genus Lacerta (40 species)
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Genus Parvilacerta
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Genus Phoenicolacerta
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Genus Podarcis (21 species)
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Genus Scelarcis (1 species)
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Genus Takydromus (22 species)
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Genus Timon (four species)
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Genus Zootoca (1 species)
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The latest extensive phylogenetic lacertid tree was made by Baeckens et al. in 2015.[6]
Terminology and scalation of lacertids
Video :
For the external links , refrences click here to read the full wikipedia article
Few Lizards in world
Family Lacertidae : Introduction , general care and Generas / Species :
- Lacerta : Introduction , general care and Generas / Species
Species :
1-The sand lizard (Lacerta agilis) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
2-The western green lizard (Lacerta bilineata) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
3-The Iberian emerald lizard (Lacerta schreiberi ) .
4- The European green lizard (Lacerta viridis) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
5- Timon tangitanus ( previously Lacerta tangitanus ) :PART ONE .. PART TWO
6- Timon lepidus ( Previously Lacerta lepida) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
General care :
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1- Captive Care Sheet
Larger Lacertids - the "Green" Lizard Group including Eyed Lizards
courtesy to : www.captive-bred-reptiles.co.uk/caresheets/6.htm
Distribution:
The Lacertids are typical lizards with a large distribution centering from Europe and ranging into Africa and Asia. The familiar sight of these lizards basking on stone walls in Southern Europe is an indication of their success in these areas. The family contains about 180 species The Green Lizards, Lacerta viridis and Lacerta bilineata are a beautiful grass green and grouped into what is broadly described as the Green Lizard Complex. The Caucasian Green lizard, Lacerta strigata is another species that ranges through Eastern Europe into Central Asia. The Balkan Green Lizards L.trilineata and L/media are an extremely varied generally larger Green lizard, which is probably in a poor taxonomic status at present. Several species, have been formed from what was once a part of the trilineata group. It also contains many subspecies which some recognise and others don?t. The main related species are L. media from Eastern Europe and Asia, with numerous subspecies and L. pamphylica, an endemic from the coast of Western Turkey, a hot spot for this group. Green Lizards,(bilineata/viridis) have 2 or 4 narrow light stripes on the dorsal surface, whereas the Balkan species have three or five. This is often more obvious in juveniles or sub-adults. The Eyed Lizard, Timon lepidus is the largest of the group at 75 to 80cm and easily recognised by the eye markings along the flanks. Lacerta schreiberi, a species where females tend to be marked with brown blotches on a pale brown or green base, with males generally green with small black spots. L.viridis and L.schreiberi tend to favour situations where there is often some moisture. The smaller Lacertas more commonly seen in captivity are Psammodromus hispanicus and P.algiris, the Sand Racers and the Wall Lizards Podarcis muralis and L.sicula from mainland Europe as well as P.lilfordi and P.pityusenses of the Balearics. The latter and its numerous subspecies are particularly varied and colourful. Unfortunately the island forms are only available occasionally as captive bred young as they are fully protected by the Spanish Government.
Housing:
Housing inside. This best accomplished in a wooden or glass vivarium with a sliding glass door at the front. For a small trio of wall lizards a minimum size would be 18x10x10inches, larger species of the green lizard complex need more like 30x15x15inches for a pair. A side panel ideally needs to be 75% vented in wire or plastic mesh one end and 25% at the top end of the other. The purpose of this is to give a movement of air. The heat bulb when placed at the 25% mesh end will draw cool air towards itself and while heating it, allowing it to pass out through the mesh. Thus avoiding a lethal build up of heat. Using the heat source in this way will create a thermal gradient. For Ultra Violet light a Reptilite or other fluorescent tube can be used. In the last few years more usefull bulbs have been produced with a higher level of U V B output. Active U V B in 100w and 160 w and the new Arcadia D3, 23w compact UVB. Although they are expensive they should in theory avoid the need to use D3 supplements and flourecent tubes. Combining natural synthesis of D3 with a good heat source. When suspended above the substrate, providing a substitute sunlight they should be positioned no further than 12 inches away to be most effective. Care should be taken to make sure animals cannot get close enough to cause skin burns. Depending on the room temperature ordinary heat or spotlights should be between 25W and 100W. Aim for a temperature reading of 40C directly under the bulb on a basking rock, dropping to 20,25C at the far end. The heat and light source can be turned off completely at night assuming the room is frost proof and stays above 10?C. Substrate can be silver sand with a few large rocks. The rocks will need to be placed directly on the base of the cage before the sand is added in order to stop lizards digging under the rock and getting crushed or trapped in some way. Both situations may result in the death of the lizard. Sand has the advantage that it is easy to sieve out the faeces when dry, low cost to replace and can be sterilised if necessary. A plastic or polypropylene box with an access hole cut in the top half filled with damp sand and peat covered by a layer of moss will provide an area to hide and lay eggs. This area will need spraying fairly often to remain moist and assist in skin shedding.
Housing outside. This can be in the commercially available glass or plastic cold frames, open-air reptiliaries with walls of brick, concrete paving slabs, corrugated PVC or one of the newer polycarbonate materials used widely in conservatories. It is wise to build an overhang around the top to stop lizards getting out. Ground should be dug out inside the enclosure to a depth of 2 feet and filled with large pieces of rock and builders rubble leaving plenty of nooks and crannies below ground, over this can be placed a layer of dead leaves or bracken, then soil and if heavy clay plenty of gravel and sand will need to be added to lighten it up. The site should be south facing for maximum sun And well drained to avoid lizards drowning in hibernation. If the local climate is such that glass is needed to warm up the environment on warm days a facility should be available to replace some of the glass panes with fine mesh allowing direct U.V.rays to enter and at the same time avoiding overheating. Plants such as ivy, heathers, festuca grass, thyme, sedum and sepervivum are just a few of the suitable plants that can be grown in this mediterranean micro habitat. A small pool can be added to this set up if room allows.
Heating and Lighting:
SEE COMMENTS UNDER HOUSING AND REPRODUCTION SECTIONS
Hibernation:
SEE COMMENTS UNDER HOUSING AND REPRODUCTION SECTIONS
Food and Water:
Diet consists of as many different insects as possible. Locusts, crickets giant mealworms and waxmoth larvae can be purchased from specialist shops or mail order, while during the summer months many insects can be collected by sweeping the hedgerows with a robust nylon mesh net. All manner of insects and spiders will be found which can be placed in a polythene bag until they are released into the cage or enclosure. Woodlice can be placed in outdoor enclosures where they will breed, especially if a few old logs are left around for them. Lizards in outdoor units will need more food presented to them, owing to the fact that lots of the crickets etc will crawl away and hide before they are eaten. The insect food will need to be fed a calcium rich diet before they are fed to the lizards as many insects bought commercially may not have been fed any thing for some time therefore being of little food value. Vitamin D3 must also be provided on food for lizards that are under glass or inside. There are many suitable supplements available such as Repton, Vionate and Nekton multivitamin powders. These can be mixed with calcium carbonate 50/50 and dusted on the insects by placing them in a bag or small plastic aquaria and shaking them together. Cuttlefish bone or ground eggshell can also be offered in a small dish. Females will often help themselves to this, particularly when egglaying. Water must be available at all times. This is especially true when housing inside and during periods of high temperatures.
Reproduction:
Most Lacertas will not breed unless they are allowed to have a winter rest of reduced light and temperature. This may be a full hibernation outside in the hibernaculum suggested or in an unheated but frost proof shed packed in dry leaves or shredded paper. Another alternative would be to place them in a fridge in a plastic ventilated box with leaves or moss at 5 to 8?C. The fridge door must be opened regularly to allow an air change over. On emerging from this rest period of from one to three months the lizards will begin to get sexually active as the weather gets warmer and the days get longer. Much chasing and biting will ensue, males biting females on their flanks and necks, eventually holding the female down by the neck while positioning the underside of it?s tail under the females tail. As the ventral areas meet the male inserts one of his hemipenes and fertilisation takes place. The female will now begin to increase in size. It will not be long now until the female is ready to lay her eggs. On depositing her eggs she will look extremely thin with loose folds of skin along her sides. The eggs must be found quickly and placed in an incubator before they dry out. The eggs should be placed in damp vermiculite. Place vermiculite in a suitable sized plastic box with one or two small holes for air exchange add water and drain off excess immediately. To be precise water and vermiculite should be of equal weight. Place the eggs half buried in the medium, if eggs are stuck together leave them like this and bury the whole mass about 3/4deep. Temperature range can be from 26 to 29?C. Incubation can range from 40 to 90 days depending on species. Young when born should be placed in a vivarium with a water dish and plenty of hiding places. Feeding must be daily if the juveniles are not to loose weight. Providing lots of small insects are offered growth will be fast. Attention must be given to providing sufficient calcium and D3 or U.V.B to promote strong bone growth and development. Calcium must be available whether under sunlight or artificial light. Lacertas are not the easiest group of lizards to reproduce regularly but with patience are a very rewarding and colourful family.
Any other hints or tips:
Rererences.The successful breeding of Lizards from Temperate Regions, B.A.W.A.Langerwerf,pages 37-46,from The Care and Breeding of Captive Reptiles,B.H.S.publication,1980. Further Reading,A Field Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians of Britain & Europe,E.N.Arnold,J.A.Burton,D.W.Ovenden,Collins,[new edition due soon] Keeping & Breeding Lizards, C.Mattison,Blanford,1991. This care sheet, was written by Terry Thatcher and any use of it should contain this reference.
2- Care sheet for European lacertids
courtesy to : bioactivevivs.wordpress.com/care-sheet-for-european-lacertids/
Care sheet for terrestrial lacertids of Europe
Introduction :
A lot of the European lacertids live in very diverse habitats, and live widespread across the continent. The large distribution of these animals show how adaptable they are to their surrounding environment, therefore making them perfect animals to keep in captivity.
These hardy, diurnal and active lizards are without a doubt very rewarding to keep, and when provided the right care, can be very long lived animals that do great in both indoor and outdoor enclosures. This care sheet covers species such as Lacerta agilis, Lacerta bilineata, Lacerta trilineata, Lacerta viridis, Timon lepidus and Zootoca vivipara.
Enclosure types :
The indoor enclosure:
Since species vary in size (from around 20cm up to 80cm) the enclosures size will have to be adapted for the specific species.
Their wild habitats vary from sparse woodland to rocky fields and slopes. Both of these habitats can be easily achieved in the same vivarium. I prefer using rocks and a 50/50 sand/soil mix in the hot end (around 30-40°C in basking area) with at least 15 cm of substrate for them to dig in (preferably more for larger species). The cool end should have a temperature of around 18-20°C, and should have a substrate mix consisting of soil, compost etc. which makes it perfect for having a large variety of live plants. A second basking spot in the cool end is optional and should, depending on the size of the enclosure, have a temperature of around 25-30°C. If the enclosure is very small it may be hard to achieve the different temperatures. If that is the case it would be preferable to only have one basking area with slightly lower temperatures.
For decorating the vivarium it is always best to look at pictures of what their natural habitat looks like. Same goes for specific temperatures, humidity levels and light hours.
The outdoor enclosure:
This way of keeping might be preferable if you live in the same area as these species would in the wild and/or have the same temperature levels. These lizards are very hardy and can live outdoor all year round in most parts of Europe, as long as it doesn’t get too cold during the winter. They can also be kept outdoors during a certain period of the summer when the temperatures are high enough, then have a permanent indoor enclosure as a backup. A big advantage for outdoor enclosures is that you won’t have to spend money on expensive lightning and the animals will have much more space. They will also be able to demonstrate more natural behaviour. The enclosures can be equipped with a hibernaculum or a hibernation box (Styrofoam box filled with leaf litter etc.) that is dug down into the soil and with a tube leading up into a pile of rocks.
Lighting:
Good light quality is probably one of the most essential parts of indoor keeping. A good brand UVB and heat bulb should be fitted at the basking spot. For general lightning a 10% UVB t5 tube does well. UVB encourages the production of vitamin D3 in reptiles, which is the substance that binds calcium from their food. If they don’t bind enough calcium they will end up taking it from elsewhere, including their bone structure which can cause MBD.
We have to keep in mind that these animals are diurnal and are exposed to large amounts of sunlight in the wild.
The whole enclosure should also be covered by a 6500°K (natural light) lamp. This to keep the plants alive and to display the beautiful colours of the animal.
Diet :
All reptiles have a calcium to phosphorous ratio requirement of about 2:1 and as stated above, if they do not get enough calcium in their diet they will get diseases such as MBD (metabolic bone disease). Therefore all food should have at least this ratio, if not they need supplemental calcium. (make sure to buy products only containing calcium, no D3 etc.)
Gut loading the insects is also very important. This means to give the feeder insects a healthy diet as well, containing lots of calcium and vitamins.
Dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia) are great as a main diet and are very easy to breed. But it is always good to vary the diet and activate the lizards hunting habits, which is not possible with dubias, since they will just burrow down into the soil at any given chance. Insects that are good for releasing in the enclosure itself are locusts, grasshoppers and crickets since they jump around a lot during the daytime, when the lizard is active.
Mealworms are very high in fat and have a very low calcium to phosphorous ratio, and should only be fed every once in awhile, and dusted with calcium powder.
Feeding should occur at least three times a week, but when kept bioactive or outdoors they will always get some extra food.
Brumation
Brumation is not a must, but it will allow the animal to behave naturally. It is also necessary if you want to breed them. They will also live longer if you decide to brumate them when adult. Brumation is achieved by gradually lowering the temperature and decreasing the light hours for every day at the same time as you stop feeding. Fresh water should always be available. When you’re not able to lower the temperature anymore in the enclosure you will have to move the lizard into a smaller container and place into a cool area, for example a fridge, then lowering the temperature gradually until it’s around 5-10°C.
After 3-4 months you just reverse the process.
Breeding :
Breeding occurs in late spring, after brumation. After 1-2 months 6-25 eggs are laid (Not in Zootoca vivipara which is viviparous).
These can be hatched in situ or dug up and placed in an incubator. The female will choose a suitable place to lay herself, and if the animals are being kept right, hatching in situ should not be a problem.
© 2016 Lukas Rosén, Bioactive Vivaria Worldwide, all rights reserved
Family Lacertidae : Introduction , general care and Generas / Species :
- Lacerta : Introduction , general care and Generas / Species
Species :
1-The sand lizard (Lacerta agilis) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
2-The western green lizard (Lacerta bilineata) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
3-The Iberian emerald lizard (Lacerta schreiberi ) .
4- The European green lizard (Lacerta viridis) : PART ONE .. PART TWO
5- Timon tangitanus ( previously Lacerta tangitanus ) :PART ONE .. PART TWO
6- Timon lepidus ( Previously Lacerta lepida) : PART ONE .. PART TWO