Salt Water Aquarium Corals-LPS-Part3

Family: Euphyllidae

1- Anchor Coral

Ridge Anchor Coral, Sausage coral, Hammer Coral

Euphyllia ancora

The Anchor Coral, with its green glow and gently waving tentacles, can be almost hypnotic!

The Anchor Coral Euphyllia ancora is a reef keepers favorite large polyp stony (LPS) coral. It is colorful and quite attractive with its long tentacles topped with bean-like tips gently swaying in the current. It resembles its close relative, the Hammer coral Euphyllia fimbriata, but the Hammer Coral is not found around Australia. At times the Anchor Coral is inaccurately called the Hammer coral, or even the Frogspawn Coral E. divisa, but with a close look, you can correctly identify it.

The Anchor Coral and the Hammer Coral are very similar except the polyps of the Hammer coral have hammer or "T" shaped tips. The Anchor corals lack the "T" shape, rather they have semi-circular or sausage shaped tips. There is also a very nice branching form of the Anchor Coral, known as the Branching Anchor Coral Euphyllia parancora.

Common colors of the Anchor Coral are pale brown, green, blue-gray, and orange tentacles. These are topped with bright green, pale cream, green or tan tips that curve, looking like an elongated "C" from the top. Both the E. ancora and E. parancora can also come in shades of blue.

The Anchor Coral is yet another variation of a beautiful genus of LPS that is moderately easy to keep and a great addition to any display. Like others of its genus, it will be the first to warn you that the water quality in the tank is less than acceptable. Providing it with sufficient lighting, a moderate but turbid water flow, and the availability of passing food will contribute to their success.

The E. ancora has been propagated in captivity. These corals are not hermatypic, which means they do not contribute to reef structures. Yet in the wild it takes 2 years for a colony to repopulate, and there is concern about over collecting these corals. In some countries they have been outlawed for collection. Propagating these corals is very important in preserving the wild colonies.

Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Euphyllia ancora

The family Euphyllidae, "... is a very large family of zooxanthellate scleractinans, that were previously grouped in the family Caryophylliidae (Mather, 1994). It includes such genera as Euphyllia, Catalyphyllia, Nemenzophyllia, Plerogyra, and Physogyra." Source: Tropical Marine Biology II, Classification of Scleractinian (Stony) Corals, by Pierre Madl, University of Vienna, 2001, Revised in Nov. 2002

Distribution / Background :

Euphyllia Coral Information: The Anchor Coral Euphyllia ancora was described by Vernon and Pichon in 1980. Other names this coral is known for are Sausage Coral, Hammer Coral, Ridge Anchor Coral, and Wall Coral.

Where Euphyllia Corals Are Found: E. ancora are found in the Indo-West Pacific in Japan and Maldives to and around Australia including the Great Barrier Reef, the Elizabeth Reef, and the North West Cape.

Euphyllia Coral Habitat: The E. ancora live in colonies in waters that are turbid, yet gentle, and inhabit both reef slopes and reef bottoms. They are found at depths down to 131 feet (40 m) and enjoy indirect bright light. They have stinging cells to help capture small prey and to defend themselves against predators.

Status :

The E. ancora is not on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.

Description :

What do Euphyllia Corals look like: The Anchor Coral E. ancora has a meandering wall like structure with the polyps forming along the top, they also form "valleys" throughout the surface. They develop large colonies with polyps that retract into the skeleton, though not completely. The polyps extend during the day and only partially at night, but the skeleton is obscured unless the tentacles are contracted.

The tentacles of the Anchor Coral have tips that are a sausage or "C" shape. It is similar to the Hammer Coral E. fimbriata, but the Hammer Coral has a straighter and flatter tip. The Branching Anchor Coral E. parancora is the branching form of the Anchor Coral. It has a similar size and shape as the Frogspawn Coral E. divisa, but differs in that the E. divisa has a denser skeletal structure.

The colors of the tentacles can be pale brown, green, blue-gray, and orange with bright green, pale cream, green or tan tips. Both the E. ancora and E. parancora can also come in shades of blue. When feeding, the individual tentacles can elongate 2 to 3 times their normal state. Some colonies can reach over 3 feet (1 m). Lifespan is unknown.

Difficulty of Care

Euphyllia Coral Care: The E. ancora can be moderate to easy to care for. Provide sufficient lighting and good turbid water flow, that is neither too strong or too weak. The availability of passing food will also contribute to their success. Using trial and error, by placing coral specimens in different areas of the tank, will eventually result in locating a favorite spot. This will be evident by full polyp expansion and feeding.

Due to collection procedures, they are often broken from parent colonies in the wild. A specimen may have soft tissue damage, especially if the skeleton has splintered into the fleshy polyp area. When purchasing your coral, make sure it has been in the store for a week or so and doing well before bringing it home. This will help you avoid a potentially sick coral, since they may take a few days after shipping to show ailments.

Foods / Feeding :

Euphyllia Coral Feeding: The Euphyllia corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.

In captivity, mysis, krill, brine shrimp and other smaller items can be fed. These corals can eat surprisingly much larger chunks of food as well. Chop up or dice whole fish or shrimp and feed the entire organism to the coral. Since different parts of the animal have varying nutritional qualities, this practice of feeding your Euphyllia in such a way will yield good results. These corals are hungry all the time, so feeding as needed with various foods is helpful.

Aquarium Care :

Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.

The following water supplements are suggested for Euphyllia species:

Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
Alkalinity: 3.5 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
Strontium: 8 - 10

Aquarium Parameters :

A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Anchor Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.

Be sure to have proper water movement. Water flow that is too strong can cause the polyps to not extend properly thus inhabiting their ability to capture food. Provide sufficient lighting, they enjoy indirect bright light. Do not place directly under metal halides or its polyps can be damaged, which can lead to rapid tissue necrosis or RTN. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Euphyllia. This coral can be aggressive, especially when hungry, then their sweeper tentacles can reach over 10" (25 cm). Feeding them regularly will help alleviate this problem.

Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
Marine Lighting: Moderate to strong, yet diffused light, but no direct metal halides.
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
Water Movement: Moderate / turbulent.
Water Region: All areas of the aquarium, depending on light and water movement.

Compatibility and Social Behaviors :

Euphyllia corals can be aggressive if touching other corals and should be positioned away from all other corals. The Anchor Coral is peaceful to its own genus, but will attack other genera within its family. The E. ancora's tentacles can co-mingle with E. divisa (Frogspawn) without any tissue damage.

The E. ancora tend to be sensitive to aquariums that have large collections of soft corals, specifically, someSinularia species. When hungry, their sweeper tentacles can reach over 10" (25 cm) in large colonies, which poses a threat to nearby corals due to their strong sting. Feeding them regularly will help alleviate this problem.

Sex - Sexual differences :

Unknown.

Breeding and Reproduction :

The large polyp stony (LPS) corals are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive.

Euphyllia genus reproduce asexually as well. In captivity, the E. ancora will bud off small groups of polyps with little skeletons attached. They will also pinch off their own tentacles, which then floats off, and being sticky, will reattach and start a new colony.

To propagate you first you need to choose a healthy coral that is not showing any signs of distress. Propagation should be done with an electric saw at least 1 1/2" to 2" away from the top. Do not use a bone crusher or scissors, since they will splinter the skeleton and harm the polyp. Glue the frag to a plug or rock. You can use the 2-part epoxy or underwater putties.The slime that the coral will exude should not come in contact with any other corals and gloves are suggested. Give the frag ample water flow.

Potential Problems :

The Euphyllia spp. are fairly hardy, but are susceptible to a few maladies. The E. ancora is susceptible to brown jelly or protozoan infections, collection problems, and intense lighting.

- Brown Jelly :

Brown jelly or protozoan infections can infect the rest of the colony if not treated. This brown jelly looks exactly like it sounds, and can be caused by poor water quality and/or tissue damage. To treat, remove the coral to a container with water from the main display, then brush or siphon off any visible brown jelly. Give the coral a freshwater dip in water with the same pH and temperature as the main tank for several minutes to kill a lot of the microorganisms.

Use an antibiotic paste on the infect areas and/or a Lugol's dip. Cyanobacteria and brown jelly infections can be treated with Neomycin sulphite, Kanamycin and other broad-spectrum antibiotics. The pill can be pulverized into a fine powder, mixed with sea water to make a paste, and then applied to the wound, or affected site of the coral with a simple artists brush.

Try to treat the coral with the least stressful method first. Place in a quarantine tank until coral recovers.

- Metal Halides :

Do not place directly under Metal Halide, or the E. ancora's polyps can be damaged and can lead to rapid tissue necrosis or RTN.

- New Specimens :

ollections from the wild may have soft tissue damage, especially if the skeleton has splintered into the fleshy polyp area. When purchasing your coral, make sure it has been in the store for a week or so, since they may take a few days after shipping to show ailments.

Availability :

Euphyllia Corals for Sale: The Anchor Coral E. ancora is very easy to find at pet shops and on line. Online they can run about $39.00 USD or more depending on size and/or color.

References :

Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
Ronald L. Shimek, Guide to Marine Invertebrates: 500+ Essential-to-Know Aquarium Species, Microcosm, 2005
Saltwater Aquarium Supplements, FishLore.com Tropical Fish Information, Copyright 2007
Bob Goemans, Hammer / Anchor Coral, Euphyllia ancora, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com

2- Bubble Coral

Pearl Coral, Bladder Coral, Pearl Bubble Coral

Pearl Coral - Bubble CoralPlerogyra sinuosa

Low light and gentle water flow is all you need to make this shiny Bubble Coral happy, if only all corals were this easy!

The Bubble Coral Plerogyra sinuosa is commonly found in the aquarium trade. Called the 'Grape Corals', the Plerogyra spp. will actually inflate or deflate their water filled vesicles (bubbles) depending on the light available.

The Plerogyra genus comes in branching varieties also. The bubbles on these corals can have little tips on the end. Hence the common name for one of the Bubble Coral's close relatives, the Pearl Coral or Octobubble Coral Plerogyra flexuosa.

All the Grape Corals have lightweight skeletons consisting of short thick stalks topped with corallites. This skeleton is hidden by the oval water filled vesicle bubbles. These bubbles only come out during the day. At night they retract, making way for their tapered feeding tentacles to come out and gather prey. Be cautious, while the bubble do not have toxins, these feeding tentacles are capable of delivering a sting.

The Bubble coral is easy to care for and not too pricey. This makes it a very desirable coral in any of its attractive colors. It comes in shades of bluish green to green, cream, and tan. In the wild, these corals form flat round colony clusters, looking much like clusters of grapes.

P. sinuosa are quite content with low lighting and gentle currents.They can do well under stronger lighting too, as long as they are acclimated to it over a period of time. Feeding them regularly and being careful to not damage their tissue are the other two ingredients needed for success in keeping them.

Scientific name :

Family: Euphyllidae (Previously Caryophylliidae)
Species: Plerogyra sinuosa

Status :

The following species from the Plerogyra genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:

P. cauliformis: Data Deficient (DD)
P. diabolotus: Data Deficient (DD)
P. discus: Vulnerable (VU)
P. multilobata: Data Deficient (DD)
P. simplex: Near Threatened (NT)
P. sinuosa: Near Threatened (NT)

Difficulty of Care :

Plerogyra Coral Care: The P. sinuosa can be easy to care for. Needing only gentle water movement and low to moderate light, this is an easy LPS with few demands. When choosing your new charge, make sure the LFS employee gently shakes the coral until most of the bubbles deflate and recede. Removing it to air while inflated will cause tears in the flesh, leading to infection. Even if the coral is left submerged, the septa can cut into the bubbles against the bag it is being put into. Also, make sure there is no algae on the septa once it is visible.

Foods / Feeding :

Plerogyra Coral Feeding: In the wild, Plerogyra corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.

In captivity, feed when the feeder tentacles are out in the evening with mysis, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, Cyclopeeze and other similar sized meaty foods. Try to not feed large pieces since it makes it difficult for the animal to digest such foods and often results in them regurgitating late at night. When this happens, they are not benefiting from the feeding and it can lead to eventual starvation.

Aquarium Care :

Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.

The following water supplements are suggested for Plerogyra species:

Calcium: 380 to 430 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
Alkalinity: 3.5 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
Strontium: 8 - 10

Aquarium Parameters :

A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Bubble Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.

Provide gentle water movement and low to moderate light. Do not put under bright lighting.They can do well under stronger lighting too, as long as you slowly increase the intensity over time. Feed them regularly and be careful to not damage their tissue. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with yourPlerogyra as they are aggressive and will sting other corals.

Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
Marine Lighting: Low or shaded Moderate light
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
Water Movement: Low / turbulent.
Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
Sex - Sexual difference : Unknown.

3- Elegance Coral

Elegant Coral, Wonder Coral

Catalaphyllia jardinei

The Elegance Coral is one of the most beautiful corals available!

Here is a brief .. For more information click on the primary name ..

The Elegance Coral Catalaphyllia jardinei has been one of the most popular large polyp stony (LPS) coral. This is because it is extremely attractive. It comes in several different colors, and usually has bright pink tips that glow under blue or ultraviolet light. Colors can be fluorescent green with cream tentacles, brown and lime green with blue, orange or purple tipped tentacles, and more. Some colors like lime green are thought to help in UV protection.

The C. jardinei is a widespread coral found in many diverse habitats. In the wild, the Elegance Coral lives in both shallow and deeper waters, down to 131 feet (40 m), in areas of gentle turbid water. They can be found attached on hard patch reef substrates, where they tend to grow larger, or free-living on soft substrates. Their cone shaped, wedge-like skeletal structure allows them to bury into the softer substrates. In the ocean they are usually collected from soft sand or silt substrates, sometimes for areas where sea grasses frequently intertwine with their tentacles.

Throughout the 1980's and into the 90's, the Elegance Coral was considered easy to care for. Unfortunately, sometime in the late 1990's some specimens began entering the trade that were doomed by a condition that had no known cause or cure. Eric Borneman, in his 2008 article Elegance Corals: Sustainability and Disease Impacting Catalaphyllia jardinet (Wells 1971) in the Aquarium Trade, refers to this as "Elegance Coral Syndrome (ECS)". Just about all Catalaphyllia the aquarium trade come from Indonesia, but a small number do come from a few southeast Asian nations and Australia has recently begun to export the species as well. The ECS condition is contagious, but it does appear to be specific only to Catalaphyllia. Borneman says that the "disease causes the colony's oral disk to swell, with a fringe of unexpanded tentacles." The signs of disease contagion ranges from a few days to a few weeks. Then it takes several weeks or months to kill a colony.

The ECS condition has continued today making these corals extremely difficult to care for. Success in keeping a C. jardenei in captivity depends on a few necessary components. Ideally obtain specimens cultivated in captivity that have never been exposed to specimens with ECS. Unfortunately captive bred corals are not common and most available specimens will be collected from the wild. Borneman suggests that "the most effective solution is to quarantine or isolate all collected or purchased Catalaphyllia from all other Catalaphyllia for at least one month, to ensure that the disease is not present."

In the aquarium, strong currents are not appreciated by the C. jardenei, but some water movement is required. Place the base on soft sand away from rocks. Position the coral far away from all other organisms as contact with any algae, caulerpa or soft corals, as well as many other LPS will cause tissue recession and death. This coral sends out sweeper tentacles that can be quite strong. They will expand a surprising amount so leave plenty of room (at least 6 inches) around this coral. It also requires medium to strong light. Direct metal halides will burn the tissue, but diffused moderate light is appreciated. They can be fed occasionally. Foods 1/4" (6 mm) or smaller will be eaten greedily and will sustain the coral. Larger pieces will be accepted by the coral, but will later be regurgitated. Meeting all these requirements will provide the necessary habitat to provide you with a healthy Elegance Coral that will live a long life.

Scientific name

Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Catalaphyllia jardinei

Status :

The C. jardinei is not on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.

Difficulty of Care :

Catalaphyllia Coral Care: The C. jardinei can be moderate to difficult to care for. Most available specimens in the trade are collect from the wild and many will have contracted Elegance Coral Syndrome (ECS). These infected corals are doomed by this condition, which has no known cause or cure. The condition is contagious, but does appear to be specific only to Catalaphyllia. It is characterized by the oral disk to swelling and a fringe of unexpanded tentacles.

Captive bred corals, and specimens that are not infected by ECS can be moderate in care. Providing correct lighting, good gentle, yet turbid water flow, a good location, and almost daily feedings of finely minced food will contribute to their success. Make sure the tentacles are nowhere near live rock where they can be abrased and cut, since this will lead to tissue damage and brown jelly infection. Avoid direct metal halides, unless it is highly diffused.

Elegance Corals with brown pigment are generally healthier and easier to care for. Translucent and clear specimens have already expelled most of their zooxanthellae and will not survive long. If your lighting is aging and dull, the Elegance Coral will expand its tissue to try and absorb light. This polyp expansion is not an indication of growth, but an indication your lighting is too low or old. Measure its skeleton when you acquire your C. jardenei and then again 6 months later to ascertain actual growth.

Foods / Feeding :

Catalaphyllia Coral Feeding: The Catalaphyllia corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.

In captivity, these corals are hungry all the time, so feed as needed with various types of foods for optimal health. Never feed your C. jardenei foods that are any larger than .25" (6 mm). Try mysis, krill, brine shrimp and other smaller items. You can also mince a small fish or shrimp into very small pieces and feed the entire organism to your Elegance Coral, since different parts of the animal have varying nutritional qualities. Just be cautious, placing a whole fish or shrimp does result in the animal's grabbing the food, but late at night it is regurgitated. This results in eventual starvation, starting with tissue recession and onset of possible disease. The C. jardenei does eat a lot of food, but it must be the proper small size of 1/4" or smaller.

Aquarium Care :

Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.

The following water supplements are suggested for Catalaphyllia species:

Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
Strontium: 8 - 10

Aquarium Parameters :

A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Elegance Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. Have an open area with soft sand substrate. A mature tank is recommended.

Be sure to have proper water movement. Water flow that is too strong can cause the polyps to not extend properly thus inhabiting their ability to capture food. Provide sufficient lighting, they enjoy indirect bright light. Do not place directly under metal halides or its polyps can be damaged, which can lead to rapid tissue necrosis or RTN. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Catalaphyllia. This coral can be aggressive, so leave plenty of room (at least 6 inches) around this coral.

Minimum Tank Size / Length: 100 gallons (380 L) or larger
Marine Lighting: Moderate and diffused light, but no direct metal halides.
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
Water Movement: Gentle to Moderate and turbid
Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
Sex - Sexual differences : Unknown.

4-Fox Coral

Jasmine Coral, Ridge Coral, Jasmine Fox Coral

Family: Caryophylliidae

Nemenzophyllia turbida

Fox Coral's are absolutely beautiful, and are often mistaken for anemones!

This eye-catching coral Nemenzophyllia turbida is the only known species in the Nemenzophyllia genus. It was named after Dr. Francisco Nemonzo, who was a pioneering researcher of Philippine corals. The Fox Coral is also popularly known as the Jasmine Coral, the Ridge Coral, and the Jasmine Fox Coral.

The Fox Coral is usually brownish pink or light green. Colonies are flabello-meandroid, meaning they form elongated valleys with separate septa walls. The walls are a thin fragile ridge-like skeleton, and the polyps will expand enormously in the right conditions. With their large striated ruffled polyps spreading out into flower-like shapes, they are occasionally mistaken for anemones. On the reef, the Fox Coral coral inhabits sheltered environments under overhangs in turbid waters.

This coral is easy to keep in our experience, although sometimes it is described by others as being difficult. Feeding tentacles have not been observed on N. turbida, and it is believed they tend to get most of their nutrition from absorbing nutrients from the water. This makes the Fox Coral one of the easiest large polyp stony (LPS) corals to care for. Low water movement is required. They do well under a low to medium level of indirect light, and will turn brown if the light is too strong.

The Fox Coral is not aggressive. These are very pretty corals that seen to neither sting nor be stung by other tank mates. They are easy to frag, with using a simple pair of scissors to cut their little corrugated skeletal bodies. They regenerate their tissue faster than any other member of its family. They also like gentle turbid water, which in general makes them poor tank makes for small polyp stony (SPS) corals.

Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Nemenzophyllia turbida

Difficulty of Care :

Nemenzophyllia Coral Care: The N. turbida can be easy care for. Water flow should be gentle to moderate and turbid, containing dissolved nutrients. They do quite well under standard fluorescent lights. Stronger lighting, like HO and metal halide must be filtered. You can put your Fox Coral under an overhang to protect it from this type of bright lighting. Lighting that is too bright will result in the coral turning brown.

Foods / Feeding :

Nemenzophyllia Coral Feeding: This coral, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, has developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they may receive some of their nutrients. Feeding tentacles have not been observed on N. turbida, so it is believed that they tend to get most of their nutrition from absorbing dissolved organic matter.

In captivity, the N. turbida can be fed microplankton or brine shrimp once a week. Because they tend to get most of their nutrition by absorbing nutrients from the surrounding water, they are best suited to aquariums with less efficient filtration and less aggressive skimming.

Aquarium Care :

Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.

The following water supplements are suggested for N. turbida:

-Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)

-Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)

-Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.

-Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.

-Strontium: 8 - 10

Aquarium Parameters :

A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Fox Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. This coral will not thrive in a pristine environment as it uses absorption of dissolved nutrients to survive. Do not over skim so as to leave enough nutrients for it to absorb. A mature tank is recommended.

Be sure to have proper water movement, a low water movement is what is required. Provide sufficient lighting. They do quite well under standard fluorescent lights. Stronger lighting, like HO and metal halide must be filtered. You can put your Fox Coral under an overhang to protect it from this type of bright lighting. This coral is not aggressive towards other corals.

Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
Marine Lighting: Low to moderate
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
Water Movement: Gentle to Moderate and turbid
Water Region: All areas of the aquarium, depending on light and water movement
Sex - Sexual differences Unknown.

5-Frogspawn Coral

Octopus Coral, Zig-Zag Coral, Honey Coral, Wall Coral

Euphyllia divisa

known as the Frogspawn Coral, this coral looks like a spawn of frogs eggs or very small grapes!

The Frogspawn Coral Euphyllia divisa is a definite favorite large polyp stony (LPS) coral. The flowing tentacles and tips are very colorful, and when combined make for a really cool display. The scientific name is taken from having polyps that are divided at the end. Hence its popular common name Frogspawn, as well as a couple other common names including Octopus Coral, Honey Coral, Wall Coral, Zig-Zag Coral, and Fine Grape Coral.

The identification of the E. divisa is determined more so by the shape of the polyp than their delicate skeletal structure. There are a number of colors the Frogspawn Coral comes in. Tentacles can be tan to brown or green to yellow, and the contrasting tips can be pink, lavender, white or cream. At times the Frogspawn Coral is inaccurately called Grape coral. However the Grape coral Euphyllia cristata does not have branching polyps, and each tentacle is perfectly straight with one contrasting tip.

The Frogspawn Coral can be easy to moderate to care for. Like others of its genus, it will be the first to warn you that the water quality in the tank is less than acceptable. It is recommended to people who have had some LPS experience with species like the Elegance coral. Some commensal shrimp enjoy the protection of its tentacles, tentacles that will sting nearby corals to make room for more growth as well as provide tasty meals!

The E. divisa has been propagated in captivity. It is readily available in stores and online and is one of the less expensive Euphyllia species. These corals are not hermatypic, which means they do not contribute to reef structures. Yet in the wild it takes 2 years for a colony to repopulate, and there is concern about over collecting these corals. In some countries they have been outlawed for collection. Propagating these corals is very important in preserving the wild colonies.

Scientific name

Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Euphyllia divisa

Status

The E. divisa is not on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.

Difficulty of Care :

Euphyllia Coral Care: The E. divisa can be moderate to easy to care for. Provide sufficient lighting and good turbid water flow, that is neither too strong or too weak. The availability of passing food will also contribute to their success. Using trial and error, by placing coral specimens in different areas of the tank, will eventually result in locating a favorite spot. This will be evident by full polyp expansion and feeding.

Due to collection procedures, they are often broken from parent colonies in the wild. A specimen may have soft tissue damage, especially if the skeleton has splintered into the fleshy polyp area. When purchasing your coral, make sure it has been in the store for a week or so and doing well before bringing it home. This will help you avoid a potentially sick coral, since they may take a few days after shipping to show ailments.

Foods / Feeding :

Euphyllia Coral Feeding: The Euphyllia corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.

In captivity, mysis, krill, brine shrimp and other smaller items can be fed. These corals can eat surprisingly much larger chunks of food as well. Chop up or dice whole fish or shrimp and feed the entire organism to the coral. Since different parts of the animal have varying nutritional qualities, this practice of feeding your Euphyllia in such a way will yield good results. These corals are hungry all the time, so feeding as needed with various foods is helpful.

Aquarium Care :

Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.

The following water supplements are suggested for Euphyllia species:

Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
Strontium: 8 - 10

Aquarium Parameters :

A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Frogspawn Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.

Be sure to have proper water movement. Water flow that is too strong can cause the polyps to not extend properly thus inhabiting their ability to capture food. Provide sufficient lighting, they enjoy indirect bright light. Do not place directly under metal halides or its polyps can be damaged, which can lead to rapid tissue necrosis or RTN. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Euphyllia. This coral can be aggressive, especially when hungry, then their sweeper tentacles can reach over 10" (25 cm). Feeding them regularly will help alleviate this problem.

Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
Marine Lighting: Moderate to strong, yet diffused light, but no direct metal halides.
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
Water Movement: Moderate / turbulent.
Water Region: All areas of the aquarium, depending on light and water movement.
Sex - Sexual difference : Unknown.

6-Grape Coral :

Euphyllia cristata

Having polyps tipped with purple or pink, the Grape Coral resembles clusters of very small grapes!

The Grape Coral Euphyllia cristata is similar to its close relative theFrogspawn Coral Euphyllia divisa. However its tentacles look nothing like the Frogspawn, but rather more like shorter versions of the Torch CoralEuphyllia glabrescens tentacles. A close look will quickly help you to easily identify this coral. The Grape coral does not have branching polyps and each tentacle is perfectly straight with one contrasting tip.

Colors of individual tentacles on the E. cristata are green to brownish green. They are topped with yellow, cream, pink. lavender, or pale-orange tips.The variety of colors they come in makes them a fun "collectable" if you can find them. They are not as readily available as other Euphyllia but they are worth the hunt, and bound to catch some attention once in the aquarium.

The Grape Coral can be easy to moderate to care for. It is a big eater and will grow easily if kept well fed. Providing it with sufficient lighting, a moderate but turbid water flow, and the availability of passing food will contribute to their success. They are on the easier side to care for as far as Euphyllia are concerned, and do quite well under T-5 lighting. Like others of its genus, it will be the first to warn you that the water quality in the tank is less than acceptable. It is recommended to people who have had some LPS experience with species like the Elegance coral.

The E. cristata has been propagated in captivity. These corals are not hermatypic, which means they do not contribute to reef structures. Yet in the wild it takes 2 years for a colony to repopulate, and there is concern about over collecting these corals. In some countries they have been outlawed for collection. Propagating these corals is very important in preserving the wild colonies.

Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Euphyllia cristata

Status :