Octobubble Coral, Pointed Bladder Coral, Grape Coral
Pearl Coral, Small Bubble Coral, Octopus Coral
Physogyra lichtensteini
The Pearl Bubble Coral is a hungry little dude, thriving best when kept well fed!
The Pearl Bubble Coral Physogyra lichtensteini is also known by such names as the Octobubble Coral, Pointed Bladder Coral, Grape Coral, Pearl Coral, Small Bubble Coral, Octopus Coral, and even the Tipped Bubblegum Coral. In the wild they grow in a meandroid fashion, where the polyps form valleys and hills. Though the P. lichtensteini was once quite rare in the aquarium trade, it is commonly available today.
The Pearl Bubble Coral is quite similar to the 'grape' corals or 'bladder' corals of the Plerogyra genus. Like the Bubble Coral Plerogyra sinuosaand the Pearl Coral Plerogyra flexuosa, the Pearl Bubble Coral has water filled vesicles (bubbles) that will actually inflate or deflate, depending on the light available. The bubbles differ in size however, with the vesicles of the Pearl Bubble Coral reaching only about 3 - 5 mm in diameter, while thePlerogyra spp. reach about 1/2" to 1" (1 - 2.5 cm).
The color of the P. lichtensteini can be pale gray, to a dull or bright green. During the day, its surface is covered with masses of small oval grape like bubble clusters that will retract when touched. These little bubbles will deflate when the sweeper tentacles come out at night, exposing it skeletal structure. Be cautious, while the bubbles do not have toxins, these feeding tentacles are capable of delivering a sting.
The Physogyra genus can be easy to moderate to care for as long as you don't blast them with sudden or high currents and high intensity lighting. The Pearl Bubble Coral is quite content with low lighting, gentle currents, and being careful to not damage their tissue. They enjoy, but do not require, bright light. If you expose a green or light colored Pearl Bubble Coral to high light levels, expect it to turn brown to compensate for the intensity. This it will not harm the coral, but to be kept under stronger lighting, they will need to be acclimated over a period of time. These guys, like their fellow "bubble corals" are hungry and need to be fed daily for best results.
Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Physogyra lichtensteini
Status :
The P. lichtensteini is not on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.
Difficulty of Care :
Physogyra Coral Care: The Physogyra genus can be easy to moderate to care for as long as you don't blast them with sudden or high currents and high intensity lighting. The Pearl Bubble Coral is quite content with low lighting, gentle currents, and being careful to not damage their tissue. Tickle the tissue to help it recede before lifting it out of the water. This will help prevent the tissue from tearing from its own weight against their sharp skeletal structure.
If you expose a green or light colored Pearl Bubble Coral to high light levels, expect it to turn brown to compensate for the intensity. This it will not harm the coral, but to be kept under stronger lighting, they will need to be acclimated over a period of time. These guys, like their fellow "bubble corals" are hungry and need to be fed daily for best results
When choosing your new charge, make sure the LFS employee gently shakes the coral until most of the bubbles deflate and recede. Removing it to air while inflated will cause tears in the flesh, leading to infection. Even if the coral is left submerged, the septa can cut into the bubbles against the bag it is being put into. Also, make sure there is no algae on the septa once it is visible. If you do see some, you will have to clean it off if you purchase the coral.
Foods / Feeding :
Physogyra Coral Feeding: The Physogyra corals are considered planktivores and have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, they can be fed when the feeder tentacles are out in the evening with mysis, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, Cyclopeeze and other similar sized meaty foods. Also you can shred whole fish or shrimp and feed the entire organism to the coral. Since different parts of the animal have varying nutritional qualities, this practice of feeding your Physogyra in such a way will yield good results. These corals are hungry all the time, so feeding as needed with various foods is helpful. That may also help keep them from sweeping their tentacles too far.
Aquarium Care:
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Physogyra species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Octobubble Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended. Provide gentle water movement and low to moderate light. They can actually increase and decrease their bubble size if they need more light. If you expose a green or light colored Pearl Bubble Coral to high light levels, expect it to turn brown to compensate for the intensity. This it will not harm the coral, but to be kept under stronger lighting, they will need to be acclimated over a period of time.
They are fairly hardy but are more easily injured than other LPS coral species like the Elegance coral. There are usually pieces of sharp, delicate, thin "bone" called septa in-between the bubbles, so care needs to be taken to prevent the bubbles from getting "popped" on this skeleton. Feed them regularly and be careful to not damage their tissue. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Physogyra as they are aggressive and will sting other corals.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
-
Marine Lighting: Low to moderate light
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Low / turbulent.
-
Water Region: Bottom to mid areas of the aquarium, depending on lighting
Pearl Bubble Coral, Octobubble Coral, Octocoral
Octobubble Coral
Plerogyra flexuosa
As hardy as it is beautiful, the Pearl Bubble Coral is a beginner's coral and worth every penny!
The Octobubble Coral Plerogyra flexuosa, popularly known as the Pearl Coral or Pearl Bubble Coral, is commonly found in the aquarium trade. The Plerogyra genus are known as the 'grape' corals or 'bladder' corals. In the wild, they form flat round colony clusters, looking much like clusters of grapes. They come in branching varieties as well. Their 'grapes' are water filled vesicles (bubbles) that will actually inflate or deflate, depending on the light available.
The bubble shaped vesicles can be round and smooth, like those on theBubble Coral Plerogyra sinuosa, or the can have little tips on the ends like the Octobubble Coral. The Octobubble was once thought to be a morph of the Bubble Coral, but it has been determined that it is in fact, its own individual species. The sheen over its tissue, and the little "tips" on its bubbles sets it apart.
All the Grape Corals have lightweight skeletons consisting of short thick stalks topped with corallites. This skeleton is hidden by the oval water filled bubbles. These bubbles only come out during the day. At night they retract, making way for their tapered feeding tentacles to emerge and gather prey. Be cautious, while the bubbles do not have toxins, these feeding tentacles are capable of delivering a sting.
The P. flexuosa is easy to care for and comes in shades of bluish green to green, cream, and tan. It may be a little easier to care for than its close cousin the Bubble Coral since its "bubbles" are just a little smaller, resulting in less of a risk of tearing the tissue on their skeleton.
The Pearl Corals are quite content with low lighting, gentle currents, and being careful to not damage their tissue. They enjoy, but do not require, bright light. To be kept under stronger lighting, they will need to be acclimated over a period of time. These guys, like their fellow "bubble corals" are hungry and need to be fed daily for best results.
Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Plerogyra flexuosa
Status :
The following species from the Plerogyra genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:
-
P. cauliformis: Data Deficient (DD)
-
P. diabolotus: Data Deficient (DD)
-
P. discus: Vulnerable (VU)
-
P. multilobata: Data Deficient (DD)
-
P. simplex: Near Threatened (NT)
-
P. sinuosa: Near Threatened (NT)
Since P. flexuosa is now recognized as a different species, rather than one of the morphs of P. sinuosa, it is possible that P. flexuosa shares its status on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species as Near Threatened (NT).
Difficulty of Care :
Plerogyra Coral Care: The P. flexuosa can be moderate to easy to care for. The "bubbles" tend to tear easier with this genus, compared to the smaller bubbles of the Physogyra genus. Provide gentle water movement and low to moderate light, and this is an easy LPS with few demands.
When choosing your new charge, make sure the LFS employee gently shakes the coral until most of the bubbles deflate and recede. Removing it to air while inflated will cause tears in the flesh, leading to infection. Even if the coral is left submerged, the septa can cut into the bubbles against the bag it is being put into. Also, make sure there is no algae on the septa once it is visible.
Foods / Feeding :
Plerogyra Coral Feeding: The Plerogyra corals are considered planktivores and have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, feed when the feeder tentacles are out in the evening with mysis, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, Cyclopeeze and other similar sized meaty foods. Try to not feed large pieces since it makes it difficult for the animal to digest such foods and often results in them regurgitating late at night. When this happens, they are not benefiting from the feeding and it can lead to eventual starvation.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Plerogyra species:
-
Calcium: 380 to 430 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.5 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Octobubble Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Provide gentle water movement and low to moderate light. They enjoy, but do not require, bright light. They are fairly hardy but are more easily injured than other LPS coral species like the Elegance coral. They can actually increase and decrease their bubble size if they need more light, yet can be stressed and die if exposed to bright light right away. There are usually pieces of sharp, delicate, thin "bone" called septa in-between the bubbles, so care needs to be taken to prevent the bubbles from getting "popped" on this skeleton.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
-
Marine Lighting: Low or shaded Moderate light
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Low / turbulent.
-
Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
Pom Pom Coral, Branch Coral, Branching Anchor Coral
Euphyllia glabrescens
The Torch Coral is not only beautiful, but can also be a great surrogate anemone for your clownfish!
The gorgeous Torch Coral E. glabrescens really stands out from the other Euphyllia spp. with its flowing tentacles. The tentacles are straight with no branching and are generally very long and thin, eliminating the use for sweeper tentacles. They are tipped in a contrasting color of cream, green, or white, hence its common name. It is also a branching species.
Colors of the Torch Coral vary according to location. Some are deep chocolate brown with white tips, grayish blue with bright green tips, and even a mustard color from the Marshall Islands. They form large colonies with corallite walls forming on the outer edges. Polyps extend during the day and only partially at night.
The Torch Coral can be a little harder to care for than other Euphyllia spp., but making sure it is well fed will help ensure its success. Like others of its genus, it will be the first to warn you that the water quality in the tank is less than acceptable. Provide it with sufficient lighting, a moderate but turbid water flow, and the availability of passing food. Keep the hair algae away from it too, and it will be a happy reef inhabitant.
The E. glabrescens has been propagated in captivity. These corals are not hermatypic, which means they do not contribute to reef structures. Yet in the wild it takes 2 years for a colony to repopulate, and there is concern about over collecting these corals. In some countries they have been outlawed for collection. Propagating these corals is very important in preserving the wild colonies.
Scientific name Family: Euphyllidae
Species: Euphyllia glabrescens
Status The E. glabrescens is not on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.
Difficulty of Care :
Euphyllia Coral Care: The E. glabrescens can be easy to moderate to care for. Provide sufficient lighting and good turbid water flow, that is neither too strong or too weak. The availability of passing food will also contribute to their success. Using trial and error, by placing coral specimens in different areas of the tank, will eventually result in locating a favorite spot. This will be evident by full polyp expansion and feeding.
Due to collection procedures, they are often broken from parent colonies in the wild. A specimen may have soft tissue damage, especially if the skeleton has splintered into the fleshy polyp area. When purchasing your coral, make sure it has been in the store for a week or so and doing well before bringing it home. This will help you avoid a potentially sick coral, since they may take a few days after shipping to show ailments.
Foods / Feeding :
Euphyllia Coral Feeding: The Euphyllia corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive many of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, mysis, krill, brine shrimp and other smaller items can be fed. These corals can eat surprisingly much larger chunks of food as well. Chop up or dice whole fish or shrimp and feed the entire organism to the coral. Since different parts of the animal have varying nutritional qualities, this practice of feeding your Euphyllia in such a way will yield good results. These corals are hungry all the time, so feeding as needed with various foods is helpful.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Euphyllia species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Torch Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Be sure to have proper water movement. Water flow that is too strong can cause the polyps to not extend properly thus inhabiting their ability to capture food. Provide sufficient lighting, they enjoy indirect bright light. Do not place directly under metal halides or its polyps can be damaged, which can lead to rapid tissue necrosis or RTN. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Euphyllia. This coral can be aggressive, especially when hungry, then their sweeper tentacles can reach over 10" (25 cm). Feeding them regularly will help alleviate this problem.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
-
Marine Lighting: Moderate to strong, yet diffused light, but no direct metal halides.
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Moderate / turbulent.
-
Water Region: All areas of the aquarium, depending on light and water movement.
Family: Faviidae
1- Bullseye Coral
Curved Finger Coral, Torch Coral, Trumpet Coral
Caulastrea curvata
The Bullseye Coral is not only attractive, but a hardy stony coral as well!
The Bullseye Coral Caulastrea curvata forms large, low growing colonies in the wild, reaching over 16 feet (5 m) in diameter. Its distinctive branches are much more openly spaced than other Caulastrea species. The sprawling corallites grow from a common base and are elongated, twisted, and branched. The branches closest to the periphery of the colony often curve upward, giving them their distinctive species name "curvata" and the common name of Curved Finger Coral. Some other names it is known by are Torch Coral, Trumpet Coral, and Candy Coral.
Each polyp of the Bullseye coral initially grows on its own stalk, but they will often divide as they grow upward. The polyp colors are pale brown or green, and can have a green or yellowish brown center. Their septa tends to be exaggerated, so an appearance of white "stripes" can appear, giving it that "candy cane" appearance. However, the striping can fade it the light is too bright or the water is too nutrient rich.
The C. curvata is not the most commonly collected species due to their colors being somewhat more dull, but it has been propagated in captivity. In general aquacultured specimens are hardier, and sometimes have a little more variation in the shades of their colors than those typically found in the ocean. Its close relatives, the popular Candycane Coral Caulastrea furcata and the Trumpet Coral Caulastrea echinulata are also captive propagated, and readily available in some very beautiful varieties.
The Bullseye Coral s easy to care for, it can be recommended to beginners. It likes a medium to low water movement and low to moderate lighting. These corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. Very interesting to watch! Caulastrea corals do have big appetites, so they need to be fed regularly. They can be fed when the tentacles extend but it is not necessary to do so as they will feed during the day when food is present.
Scientific name Family: Faviidae
Species: Caulastrea curvata
Distribution / Background :
Caulastrea Coral Information: The Bullseye Coral Caulastrea curvata was described by Wijsman-Best in 1972. Some common names these corals are know for are Curved Finger Coral, Bullseye Coral, Torch Coral, Trumpet Coral, and Candy Coral. The C. curvata has been propagated in captivity. In general, aquacultured specimens are hardier, and sometimes have a little more variation in the shades of the colors they are typically found with in the ocean.
Where Caulastrea Corals Are Found: C. curvata are found around New Caledonia and Australia on the Great Barrier Reef and Coral sea, but they are not found as of yet on the west coast.
Caulastrea Coral Habitat: The Caulastrea genus are primarily found on reef slopes with sandy substrate in shallow, bright water with a surging water flow. C. curvata are primarily found on reef slopes and flat substrates at depth to 131 feet (40 m).
Status :
The C. curvata is on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species as VU (Vulnerable).
Description :
What do Caulastrea Corals look like: The Bullseye Coral C. curvata is a branching formation coral. They form large, low growing colonies in the wild, reaching over 16 feet (5 m) in diameter. From a common base, they form short stalks that often split into several long corallites heads that number from 2 or more. Its distinctive branches are much more openly spaced than other Caulastrea species. The sprawling corallites are elongated, twisted, and branched. The branches closest to the periphery of the colony often curve upward, giving them their distinctive species name "curvata".
The polyp heads are irregular in shape and are about 8 mm in diameter. The polyp colors are pale brown or green, and can have a green or yellowish brown center. Their septa tends to be exaggerated, so an appearance of white "stripes" can appear, giving it that "candy cane" appearance. However, the striping can fade it the light is too bright or the water is too nutrient rich.
Difficulty of Care :
Caulastrea Coral Care: The C. curvata is easy to care for, it can be recommended to beginners. Low to moderate lighting and a medium to low water flow is recommended. It has been said that the green polyped animals are easier to maintain than the brown polyped specimens. They are very sensitive to metal halides, lighting from these sources needs to be indirect. Also, make sure that detritus does not build up between the colony branches.
These corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. Very interesting to watch! They can be fed when the tentacles extend but it is not necessary to do so.
Foods / Feeding :
Caulastrea Coral Feeding: The Caulastrea corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive some of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, they can be fed when their tentacles are out, but they will come out during the day if food is detected. Feed finely minced seafood of any kind as well as mysis, and similar sized foods. They do need to be fed at the very least twice a week, and grow quite well with regular feedings. It does help to turn the water pumps off during feeding.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Caulastrea species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 430 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.5 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Bullseye Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Be sure to have proper water movement and provide sufficient lighting. It likes a medium to low water flow and low to moderate lighting. They are very sensitive to metal halides, and need to have indirect lighting from these sources. These corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. They can be fed when the tentacles extend but it is not necessary to do so. This is a semi-aggressive species when close to other corals.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: Nano tanks and larger
-
Marine Lighting: Low to moderate
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Moderate / turbulent, surging currents are said to help increase polyp division.
-
Water Region: All areas of the aquarium, depending on lighting.
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
Caulastrea corals can be semi-aggressive when close to other corals, so do need some distance between themselves and others. In general, saying that a coral is peaceful due to shorter tentacles is not completely accurate. The Bullseye Corals may only have 2" sweeper tentacles, but they pack a bigger "punch" or stronger sting than many other corals with 6" sweeper tentacles. When the 6" sweepers from other corals hit C. curvata, they will be harmed from invading the Bullseye's space.
In the wild, the Caulastrea species are often found with commensal sponges, mollusks, zoanthids and other sessile invertebrates. Zoanthids tend grow in-between the coral's heads, but do not seem to bother the coral.
Sex - Sexual differences :
Unknown.
Breeding and Reproduction :
The large polyp stony (LPS) corals are are hermaphrodites, male and female within the same organism, and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. TheC. curvata are hermaphrodites that fertilize externally through mass spawning events. The Caulastrea genus reproduce asexually as well.
In captivity, the C. curvata can propagate by fragmenting, as well as by intratentacular budding (when a polyp divides into more polyps and then pinches off to a new branch). Propagation is super simple with this genus! Simply cut the branch that the polyp head is on with a bone cutter or something that will cut clean and quickly. The only problem you may have is if you cut too close to the polyp and cause a fracture that tears the polyps flesh. This is a problem when using weak or dull scissors as well. Happily, they should heal with good water flow. Glue the frag to a plug or rock. You can use the 2-part epoxy or underwater putties.
Potential Problems :
The Caulastrea spp. are fairly hardy but recession is seen at times on one or more polyps in a colony, but that does not mean the whole colony is in danger. Boring worms, sponges, and algae can cause this condition. Brown jelly can also occur, but a simple dip in a lugol's solution (follow directions on bottle) and periodically using a turkey baster to blast off the jelly, will do the trick. Treating in a separate quarantine tank may be necessary if there are other large polyp stony (LPS) corals in the tank.
Availability :
Caulastrea Corals for Sale: The Bullseye Coral C. curvata is very easy to find at pet shops and on line. Online they can run about $49.00 USD or more depending on size and/or color. The C. curvata has been propagated in captivity. In general, aquacultured specimens are hardier, and have been developed into much more colorful animals, including more intense variations of their colors.
References :
-
Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
-
Harry Erhardt and Horst Moosleitner, Marine Atlas Volume 2, Invertebrates (Baensch Marine Atlas), Mergus Verlag GmbH, Revised edition, 2005
-
Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
-
Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
-
J.E.N. Veron, Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific , University of Hawaii Press; 2 Rev Ed edition, 1993
-
Bob Goemans, Torch/Curved Finger Coral, Caulastrea curvata, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
Candy Cane Coral, Cat's Eye Coral, Bullseye Coral
Caulastrea furcata
The attractive Candy Cane Coral is one of the most easily recognized of the stony corals!
Here is a brief .. For more information click on the primary name ..
The Candycane Coral Caulastrea furcata is a colorful species, usually with brown polyps and neon green centers. The outside brown part can also have lighter stripes radiating out from the center. It has been very successfully propagated in captivity. Some of the aquacultured colors of C. furcata are blue with green centers, yellow with green centers, and almost a burgundy red with a green center.
This species gets its name from the septa just under the flesh of the polyp that give it a striping appearance resembling a peppermint. Common names these corals are know for are Candy Cane Coral, Cat's Eye Coral, Bullseye Coral, Torch Coral, and Candy Coral.
Next to the zoanthids, the Candy Cane Coral is pretty much a staple coral for most reef aquariums. They are the most recognizable species from the Caulastrea genus, and the most collected by aquarists. This coral is very similar to the Trumpet Coral C. echinulata. The main differences in appearance are that the trumpet is generally less colorful, and its polyps extend further from the skeleton on at the edges giving it the look of a "trumpet". The trumpets' polyps are also much more closely packed to give the appearance of one large coral. Another close relative, the Bullseye Coral Caulastrea curvata is even more openly branched than the Trumpet Coral. It is also captive propagated and readily available in some very attractive varieties.
The C. furcata is easy to care for and is a definite beginner's coral. It likes a medium to low water movement and low to moderate lighting. These corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. Very interesting to watch! Candycane Corals do have big appetites, so they need to be fed regularly. They can be fed when the tentacles extend but it is not necessary to do so as they will feed during the day when food is present.
This is not a very aggressive species. Their sweeper tentacles are short and they seldom bother anything around them, but it is semi-aggressive if it is too close to other corals. In general, saying that a coral is peaceful due to shorter tentacles is not completely accurate. The Candycane Corals may only have 2" sweeper tentacles, but they pack a bigger "punch" or stronger sting than many other corals that have 6" sweeper tentacles.
Scientific name
Family: Faviidae
Species: Caulastrea furcata
Distribution / Background
Caulastrea Coral Information: The Candycane Coral Caulastrea furcata was described by Dana in 1846. Some common names these corals are know for are Candy Cane Coral, Cat's Eye Coral, Bullseye Coral, Torch Coral, and Candy Coral.. The C. furcata has been propagated in captivity.
Where Caulastrea Corals Are Found: C. furcata are found around the Seychelles and Maldives Islands to Fiji and Tonga, and around Australia. The reefs that they inhabit around Australia are the Great Barrier Reef, Coral Sea and the Scott Reef.
Caulastrea Coral Habitat: The C. furcata are primarily found on protected reef slopes with sandy substrate in shallow, bright water with a surging water flow.
Status :
The C. furcata is on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species as LC (Least Concern)
Difficulty of Care :
Caulastrea Coral Care: The C. furcata is easy to care for, it can be recommended to beginners. It has been said that the green polyped animals are easier to maintain than the brown polyped specimens. Low to moderate lighting and a medium to low water flow is recommended. They are very sensitive to metal halides, lighting from these sources needs to be indirect. Also, make sure that detritus does not build up between the colony branches.
Foods / Feeding :
Caulastrea Coral Feeding: The Caulastrea corals, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive some of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, Candy Cane corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. Very interesting to watch! They can be fed when their tentacles are out, but they will come out during the day if food is detected. Feed finely minced seafood of any kind as well as mysis, and similar sized foods. They do need to be fed at the very least twice a week, and grow quite well with regular feedings. It does help to turn the water pumps off during feeding.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Caulastrea species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 430 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.5 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Candycane Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Be sure to have proper water movement and provide sufficient lighting. It likes a medium to low water flow and low to moderate lighting. They are very sensitive to metal halides, and need to have indirect lighting from these sources. These corals will expand in the morning before the lights are turned on and put out a circle of long tentacles similar to the pistols in a flower. They can be fed when the tentacles extend but it is not necessary to do so. This is a semi-aggressive species when too close to other corals.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: Nano tanks and larger
-
Marine Lighting: Moderate to indirect bright
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Moderate / turbulent, surging currents are said to help increase polyp division.
-
Water Region: Middle of the aquarium
-
Sex - Sexual differences : Unknown.
Differences between: Candycane Corals and Trumpet Corals
Candycane Coral polyps are
more colorful and loosely packed
Trumpet Coral polyps extend out
like a trumpet and are tightly packed
Pineapple Coral, Larger Star Coral, Brain Coral, Moon Coral
Favites Sp.
The commonality of Favites Corals with the Favia genus, is in their colorfulness and ease of Care!
The Favites Corals, along with the Favia genus, are attractive large polyp stony (LPS) corals. The Favites genus can sometimes be the more brightly colored of the two, but both groups come in pretty greens and browns, yellows and creams, and there's a slight chance of orange/red tones. Mixes of those colors are also seen with their "walls" being one color, and the calices "centers" being another, making for very attractive reef tank additions.
The Favites Coral is typically confused with the Favia genus, but it is actually quite easy to tell them apart with a little practice. The walls of the corallites, the raised areas in which polyps reside, are shared or fused in the Favites species, whereas the walls of the Favia genus are not. So when the tissue is recessed at night, on the Favia corals you can see two "sets" of walls between the calices (centers). Besides being fused, the walls of Favites Corals are also higher and they are shaped more polygonal and uneven.
In the wild, colonies of Favites Corals are flat, dome shaped, and massive. They can get to over 3 feet (1 m) in diameter. Some common names these corals are know for are Pineapple Coral, Moon Coral, Brain Coral, and Larger Star Coral. They are sometimes incorrectly called the Closed Brain Coral. This is actually a Favia name, which the Favites Corals resemble superficially.
The Favites genus is easy to care for as long as there is proper lighting, water movement, and regular feedings. They are an excellent choice for both the beginner and the advanced aquarist. Once placed in the aquarium, if left undisturbed for several months they can attach to what they are set on, and become a pretty and natural focal point in the aquarium.
Favites Corals have been propagated in captivity, yet propagation takes a long time, so they are still being collected from the oceans reefs. Favites Corals are also a little harder to frag since you cannot cut between a shared wall, you end up with damage to the surrounding calices . All that said, the Favites species are relatively easy keepers, and a great addition to any aquarium!
Scientific name Family: Faviidae
Species: Favites sp.
Status :
The following species from the Favites genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:
-
Favites abdita: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites acuticollis: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites bestae: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites chinensis: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites complanata: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites flexuosa: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites halicora: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites micropentagona: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites paraflexuosa: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites pentagona: Least Concern (LC)
-
Favites russelli: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites spinosa: Vulnerable (VU)
-
Favites stylifera: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Favites vasta: Near Threatened (NT)
Difficulty of Care :
Favites Coral Care: The Favites Coral is relatively easy to care for, making them an excellent choice for the beginner. They need proper lighting, water movement and regular feedings. These corals, with their variety of color, are actually tolerant of several lighting conditions, though higher light is preferred. Like other members of the Faviidae family, the polyps tentacles come out at night to feed.
Foods / Feeding :
Favites Coral Feeding: The Favites genus, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive some of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, the Favites Coral needs to be fed at night when their tentacles are out. Feed mysis, diced fish or shrimp flesh, and other similarly sized foods. They do need to be fed at the very least, once a week and grow quite well with regular feedings.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth.
The following water supplements are suggested for Favites species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 450 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.5 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Favites Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Be sure to have proper water movement and provide sufficient lighting. With their different colorings, Favites species can be tolerant of several lighting conditions, though higher light is preferred. Along with adequate lighting, provide a moderate water movement for the best health. This is an aggressive species, extending their sweeper tentacles at night well beyond the base. There needs to be plenty of space between it and other corals.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
-
Marine Lighting: Medium. Can also be low to high, depending on the specimen
-
Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
-
Water Movement: Moderate
-
Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
-
Sex - Sexual differences Unknown.
Leafy Hedgehog Coral
Echinopora Sp.
Keep Clown gobies with the Hedgehog Coral, and watch them form an intriguing relationship!
The Echinopora genus is often found with Clown Goby species from the genus Gobiodon bopping around its surface. These energetic little coral gobies hardly reaching 2 1/2 inches, and they have a toxic body slime so other fish don't bother with them. They are quite content living among Hedgehog Corals as well as Acroporas, much like a clownfish and an anemone. Offer them plenty of space for individual territories, and these happy Clown Gobies may even spawn in the reef aquarium.
Hedgehog Corals have more varied growth forms than any other genus, except for perhaps the Merulina genus. In the wild their massive colonies that can be arborescent, forming elongated tree-like branches, or foliaceous, shaped into thin leaf-like sheets, or a mixture of both of these. For instance, encrusting plates can develop branches, which in turn can develop more plates higher up.
The Hedgehog Coral species most commonly seen in the aquarium trade are the Leafy Hedgehog Coral E. lamellosa and Hedgehog Coral E. mammiformis. Also E. horrida is seen from time to time. E. lamellosa colonies form whorls and tiers, with a rare tubular shape here and there. E. mammiformis colonies have flat plates as bases and form bent branches. E. horridacolonies are unique in that they have branches, shooting out of a plate-like base, that twist and bend.
Echinopora colors include amber, tan to dark brown, cream, green, mustard yellow, pink, and purple; with the center of the corallite having contrasting colors. Wild caught specimens usually just come in green, cream, brown and yellow, with an occasional pink and purple in the Leafy Hedgehog Coral E. mammiformis. Aquacultured specimens have been developed into much more colorful animals including more intense variations of these colors as well as sky blue.
The Hedgehog Corals are easy to care for as long as their needs are met. They need high light and high turbid water movement for their best health. They are peaceful with other genera, but thrive best in a low stocked aquarium. They do not do well in tanks with soft corals as they are very sensitive to the chemicals that these corals produce, even if they are not close to them. Acroporas can also affect Echinopora if the tank is heavily stocked. Hedgehog Corals need to be fed at night when their tentacles are out. Feed at least once a week or more, they grow quite well with regular feedings.
Scientific name Family: Faviidae
Species: Echinopora sp.
Status :The following species from the Echinopora genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:
-
Leafy Hedgehog Coral Echinopora lamellosa: Least Concern (LC)
-
Hedgehog Coral Echinopora mammiformis: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Hedgehog Coral Echinopora gemmacea: Least Concern (LC)
-
Echinopora ashmorensis: Vulnerable (VU)
-
Echinopora forskaliana: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Echinopora fruticulosa: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Echinopora hirsutissima: Least Concern (LC)
-
Echinopora horrida: Near Threatened (NT)
-
Echinopora pacificus: Near Threatened (NT)
Difficulty of Care :
Echinopora Coral Care: A Hedgehog Coral easy to care for as long as there is strong water movement and strong lighting, and it is in a low stocked aquarium. Like other members of the Faviidae family, the polyps tentacles come out at night to feed.
Foods / Feeding :
Echinopora Coral Feeding: The Echinopora genus, like other large polyp stony (LPS) corals, have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive some of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, the Hedgehog Coral needs to be fed at night when their tentacles are out. Feed rotifers, newly hatched brine shrimp, mysis, and zooplankton type foods, including foods for filter feeders. They do need to be fed at the very least, once a week, and grow quite well with regular feedings.
Aquarium Care :
Typical water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly, or 5% weekly are needed. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives and it is ultimately cheaper than purchasing additives for the water. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons though, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth. For aquacultured specimens, the rule of thumb is stated as one frag per 10 gallons of its own water. Use of carbon may also be advantageous.
The following water supplements are suggested for Echinopora species:
-
Calcium: 400 to 430 ppm. If a large poly stony (LPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
-
Alkalinity: 3.5 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
-
Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
-
Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
-
Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Hedgehog Coral, along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
Be sure to have proper water movement and provide sufficient lighting. It needs high light and high, turbid water movement for the best health. This is a peaceful species, but does need distance between it and other corals.
-
Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
-
Marine Lighting: High
-
Temperature: 73° - 81° F (23° - 27° C)
-
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.024 - 1.026
-
Water Movement: High / turbid
-
Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
-
Sex - Sexual differences Unknown.
