Blue Striped Pipefish make some of the easiest reef pipefish to keep. Photo courtesy of Andreas Marz
Flagtail Pipefish, named such because of their large, brilliantly colored tails that they use in courtship and territory displays, are one of the easier pipfish to keep in captivity. They are one of the few that can be kept in reef aquariums with the proper accommodations made. They also adapt quite readily to eating frozen food such as cyclopeeze and mysis.
Flagtail pipefish are a free swimming pipefish from the genus Doryrhamphus and Dunkerocampus. This includes roughly 12 – 20 different species, depending which taxonomic source you go by. They are planktivores, feeding on crustaceans and other small prey items out of the water column. Many are cleaners as well, picking parasites off other fish (most notably damsels and cardinal fish.)
While they are generally easy to keep alive in captivity, there are still some obstacles that need to be overcome when keeping flagtail pipefish. There aren’t any commercial sources of captive bred flagtail pipefish (update 2008, The Seahorse Sanctuary breeds a few species of flagtail pipefish. They are available in Australia and parts of Europe, but no US dealers currently carry them), and very few reported hobbyist successes, so you’re limited to wild caught individuals, which can be starved and diseased. Feeding, as with any syngnathid is an issue (though you will see, not as big of one as you might expect). They can also be quite aggressive towards their own kind, and other species of flag tail pipefish. In this article, I will cover all of these issues, and what you can do about it.
The first issue is of course their wild caught status. Like most syngnathids, they don’t transport well. They rarely get fed appropriate foods at holding stations, and this can lead to a general weakening of their immune system and attack of secondary infections. This makes it is absolutely imperative that you pick healthy specimens. They are also quite delicate shippers. For this reason, buying one locally at a trusted store is probably your best option.
One thing to look for is be sure they are swimming and active. While they do occasionally rest, they spend most of their time actively moving about, or hovering mid water. If a specimen is laying in one spot and doesn’t seem interested in investigating you (or hiding from you!), move on. Also look for discoloration or washed out areas, especially grey film. If at all possible, see if you can get the fish store to offer live food. If you can convince them, bring some newly hatched baby brine shrimp from home (unless you’re really lucky and have one of those special stores that have bbs on hand!). If that’s not available, ask them to offer adult live brine shrimp. Unfortunately, some will not take LBS, because it’s either too large or just doesn’t move “right”.
Once you’ve selected your specimen, you’ll need to take it home and quarantine it for at least 4 weeks. This is not only to potentially protect any other tank inhabitants from any disease it might be carrying, but also to be able to treat it if an illness crops up. This time also gives the aquarist a change to feed in an environment where it is easy to observe the pipefish. I also only recommend quarantining one at a time, as they can be quite aggressive towards one another, and a bare tank provides no hiding spaces. If you MUST quarantine more than one together, I suggest using a divider, even if they seem to be getting along.
The bare minimum for a quarantine tank you’ll need is a sponge filter, a heater, a top (pipes can and do jump), and a light. Having artificial plants, or even PVC pipe will help, as many like to hide to feel secure. I would recommend at least a 10 gallon aquarium, and it MUST be cycled, as they are sensitive to even small amounts of ammonia in the water.
While in quarantine, you can use this as an opportunity to teach them to eat frozen food. They all seem to learn fairly quickly that dead food is still food, unlike many of their relatives. However, they may need to be started out on live food. I have always used newly hatched baby brine shrimp. Some will eat adult brine shrimp, though it isn’t nearly as nutritious. If you do offer live brine shrimp, be sure to enrich with a HUFA additive. There seems to be no risk of them refusing baby brine shrimp though. Once I have them eating bbs heartily, I start adding thawed cyclopeeze and mysis at the same time as feeding bbs is. It usually only takes one or two feedings to get them eating the cyclopeeze along side the bbs. Some adventureous pipes will even try frozen the first time they’re introduced to it! While they take to the cyclopeeze and mysis pretty quickly, I still tend to offer them bbs at least once a day (Ideally, feed them two – three times a day). As with any syngnathid, a variety of food is imperative to long term health. If your pipefish seems too small for mysis, try anyways. Even the smallest species tend to go after pieces much larger than their mouthes, using a snicking action to tear it apart. I’m proud to report I’ve even gotten my blue stripe pipes to accept frozen krill on occassion.
One sad fact of any wild caught syngnathid is that apparently healthy specimens can and sometimes do die for “no good reason”. Unfortunately these pipefishes are no different. Once established, this doesn’t seem to be a problem, but early on they can be fine one day, and belly up the next. The limited research and evidence for seahorses a suggests it’s an internal vibrio bacteria infection; which probably holds true for pipefish as well. This kind of infection is unfortunately very difficult to treat. You may be tempted to treat prophylacticly. It’s difficult to do – whether or not it is worth it, since you may run the risk of creating a antibiotic resistant strain of bacteria. What you can treat for prophylacticly that is shown to be effective is treating for parasites. Fenbendazole and praziquantel are very effective in treating parasites commonly found in wild caught fish. Praziquantal should be administered at a dosage of 1-2ppm for 24 hours and fenbendazole offered via enriched foods (such as gut loading brine or ghost shrimp). Short freshwater dips can also help remove external parasites.
After 4 weeks, your pipefish should be ready to go in the main tank. Now, some people are (rightfully so) afraid that mixing wild caught pipefish with captive bred seahorses can cause disease outbreaks in the captive bred seahorses, as they have no resistance to wild bacteria. This is certainly possible, though I’ve never seen or heard of it happening with flagtail pipefish. Perhaps their physiology is different enough they aren’t affected by the same diseases. Or perhaps because they behave quite differently, they never interact in such a way to be transmitting diseases between one another. I can’t guarantee it won’t happen, but thus far mixing wild caught flag tail pipefish and captive bred seahorses does not see to be a problem.
Banded Pipefish, Dunckerocampus dactyliophorus, in holding tank at distributor. Photo Courtesy of Bob Fenner
The only really disappointing thing about this group of pipefish is some species are very territorial towards each other. In the wild, they live in male – female pairs and stake out a cleaning station or hunting ground, and chase of any competitors. In captivity, they will defend their territory until one or both are dead, even different species are intolerant of related species or similar looking species. Ironically, the most aggressive ones I have encountered are the smallest; the blue stripe pipes (Doryrhamphus excisus). They will kill any intruders in a matter of days, even pipefish two-three times their size. I’ve had females kill a male that was too small. Janss are similarly agressive. Banded pipefish (Doryrhamphus dactyliophorus), on the other hand, seem to be the most docile of the flagtail pipes, sometimes occuring in groups as adults.
If you want to keep more than one in the same aquarium, you’ll have to try to create a male/female pair. The problem is, there is very little sexual difference. The males carry eggs on a brood patch under their body but it is very difficult to see if they are not carrying eggs. When looking for a male, try to find one that has a flatter underside. Female will be more round. To the untrained eye, this can be diffcult to spot. Some species (Doryrhamphus excisus, Doryrhamphus janssi) are reported to have small tubercles on the snouts of the males. These can be difficult to percieve, especially on these fast moving fish. Females sometimes also have very small bumps, confusing the matter further. However, if in doubt, you can try to use this method to sex them.
Of the agressive species, you also run the risk of two juveniles living together peacefully and fighting as they get older, as the juveniles congregate in some species. Unfortunately, your best chance is to quarantine two animals separately, and watch them very closely when you do put them together and be prepared to separate at a moments notice. Again, because juveniles can getting along for a while, you may end up watching for some time. If you get really lucky, you may find what looks like a pair, but unless you’re sure they are full-grown adults, you will need to be vigilant for the first few months they’re in your aquarium.
Flagtail Pipefish are very adaptable and can live in more aquarium types than many of their cousins. Being faster than most seahorses and pipefish, food competition is much less of an issue (though they should probably be kept away from extremely aggressive eaters). Harassment may be an issue, so it’s important to keep them from overly terriforial tank mates. I personally wouldn’t keep them with the likes of These pipefish are one of the few in the seahorse family that I would recommend as being okay in the right reef tank. Consideration needs to be taken with the type of fish and corals kept with them. I wouldn’t put them with really aggressive fish, or corals with a strong sting, and certainly not anemones.
Dunckerocampus pessuliferus in a caulerpa filled seahorse tank
Clams are probably a bad idea. The’re also experts at jumping in overflows, and are capable of jumping (though they aren’t as ready of jumpers as other species). The heat of most reef tanks doesn’t seem to bother them like most synghathids, though temperature extremes do need to be avoided.
Flagtail pipefish are a beautiful addition to the home aquarium, if the time and effort is made to properly acclimate and house them. They are a great fish if you want to venture into pipefish without the heartache that many species provide. While I wouldn’t recommend them for the beginner, anyone that’s kept seahorses, or even just saltwater fish beyond damsels and clownfish should be able to do quite will with these beautiful seahorse
Doryrhamphus janss investigating a clownfish pair
Ghost pipefishes are masters of disguise. In fact they may have some of the best disguises in the sea, which range from uncanny mimicry of leaves, crinoids, algae to sponges and seagrass. It is quite a challenge to find some of these little gems but well worth the hours scrutinising every little thing that moves on the reef. The range of colours and body shapes can make even the seasoned critter hunter surprised by this amazing group.
Are ghost pipefishes really pipefishes?
Ghost pipefish do not actually belong to the same taxonomic group that contains pipefish and seahorses as you might expect. All belong to the order Sygnathiformes but the two groups belong to different families within the order; Ghost pipefishes belong to the family Solenostomidae, whilst pipefish and seahorses the family Sygnathidae.
How do ghost pipefishes reproduce?
Their reproduction is unlike the true pipefish, in which the male broods the young, it is the female ghost pipefish that broods the eggs within large fused pelvic fins located under the body. Most species have a relatively long period spent floating around in the ocean as plankton, reaching almost adult length before they finally settle onto the reef. This means that they have a wide geographic range since they can travel long distances after they are born. They are generally found living in pairs with the smaller, skinnier of the two male and the large individual, with bigger fins, the female. They range in size from 10-15 cm.
What are the different ghost pipefish species and how do you identify them?
- Ornate Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus paradoxus:
This is probably the most well know species, which is also known as the Harlequin ghost pipefish. It is often found in pairs living along side crinoids (feather stars) and occurs in a startling rainbow of colour forms. As well as feather stars I have seen this species mimicking soft corals, hydroids, whip corals and gorgonian corals. The small protrusions that cover the animal's body help break up its outline in these micro-habitats. Like the other species the ornate ghost pipefish is a predator of small mysid shrimp. Juveniles are almost transparent but are nearly adult length when they settle from their planktonic stage.
Ornate Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus paradoxus
Robust Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus cyanopterus:
Another of the more common species. It can easily be identified by a uniform colouration of beige, brown, black, green or very rarely bright red. It has no filaments or hairs and no distinctive markings over the body. It mimics seagrasses with uncanny ability and also sways with surge or current in the same way as an inanimate leaf. Having seen a few of these you will suddenly have a subconscious search image in your brain and begin seeing them at every turn. It does become a little worrying when you see them on land too!
-Rough Snout Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus paegnius:
Identifying this species isn't rocket science. The presence of weedy appendages underneath the snout is key. The amount of 'hair' on the body can be highly variable ranging from virtually smooth to a very shaggy in appearance. Colouration is generally greenish or brown but if you're lucky there are also red forms, this depends upon the colour of local algae, which it mimics. The body is elongate and similar in shape to the robust species with the exception of appendages under the snout.
-Delicate Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus leptosomus:
This is a fairly uncommon species but can be quite easily identified by a thin white stripe down the middle of the body. Whilst uncommon, it has a wide geographic range across the Indian and Pacfic Oceans. It is quite slender in comparison to the other ghost pipefishes and commonly redish or brown in colouration, although sometimes it can appear almost transparent. There is usually a small weedy appendage under the middle of the snout but some individuals may have more than others.
-Halimeda Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus halimeda:
In some localities around Southeast Asia this species can be quite common, and in others totally absent. As the name suggests it is found living with Halimeda, which is a hard, green calcareous alga that often forms large patches on the reef. The ghost pipefish has rounded fins that resemble the individual growth segments of the Halimeda. The alga is green or white in colouration often with red filaments and as a result the ghost pipefish in a particular patch of the alga resemble these colours exactly.
-Hairy Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus sp :
This species has not officially been scientifically described and named but is fairly well known from the Coral Sea region between Australia, Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. It is covered in long red filaments and has a more compact body than the hairy forms of the rough snout ghost pipefish, with which it could possibly be confused. It is found living near filamentous algae that has a similar form and colour as the fish.
-Velvet Ghost Pipefish - Solenostomus :
This species is one of the more colourful ghost pipefishes existing in white, baby pink and brilliant red. These colours seem gaudy out of context but in their habitat of a vibrant reef it blends in magnificently. The surface texture mimics that of the sponges with which it is usually found and the shape is also reminiscent of certain small sponges.
Where do ghost pipefish live?
In many parts of their range ghost pipefish are extremely seasonal and only present for a few months of the year, usually when the water is warmest. This varies from location to location but local guides will usually know when this is. Ghost pipefishes generally do not like areas of strong current, preferring sheltered spots such as bays or 'muck' sites. Search for them around small outcrops of coral, algae or sponges on sandy slopes.
How will I take the best shots of ghost pipefishes?
iven that ghost pipefishes are fairly confident in their camouflage they are usually secure in hanging around whilst photographers get the shots they want. Having said that it is the responsibility of the photographer to treat them with respect and limit disturbance to the animal. As with all underwater creatures they will be much easier to photograph if they are not manipulated or poked to get them in a better position. This puts the animal in a defensive mode and is much more likely to shy away from the diver making photographs much more difficult. With care and patience ghost pipefish are excellent subjects that make lovely photographs.
Pipe Fish species list ( In the aquarium market ) :
Pipefish reach an average of eight inches. Pipefish are relatively hardy and adjust well to aquarium life if maintained in water conditions with low current and plenty of branching gorgonias, algae, or coral decorations. Because Pipefish have difficulty competing for food, they are best kept in a tank containing only Seahorses and Pipefish. Live foods such as vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, small ghost shrimp, or copepods and amphipods found in live rock are usually preferred.
Banded pipefish care (Doryrhamphus dactyliophorus)
1-Dragonface Pipefish
Corythoichthys sp.
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care Level: Difficult
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 7"
Color Form: Black, Pink, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Fiji, Indonesia, Maldives
Family: Syngnathidae
The Dragonface Pipefish is also called the Reeftop Pipefish, Messmate Pipefish, Network Pipefish, and Banded Messmate Pipefish. This fish has a long, slender body with a tiny, tubular mouth and a small pink tail. The body is cream colored with highly variable black, pink, and yellow markings. Each individual has a unique pattern, and some can be very striking and colorful. The South Pacific or Tongan Dragonface Pipefish has been scientifically identified as Corythoichthys haematopterus, and the Western Pacific or Indonesian fish as Corythoichthys intestinalis. Although there are slight differences in markings, these fish look very similar and are oftentimes hard to distinguish from one another. To complicate matters further, some ichthyologists suggest there are over 12 sub-species due to regional variation among these fishes.
The Dragonface Pipefish is a poor swimmer and prefers to travel by sliding its body over substrate and live rock similar to the way a snake moves. The Dragonface Pipefish can also use its tail to loosely anchor itself to corals or rocks.
The Dragonface Pipefish is among the hardiest pipefish, but is difficult to keep due to its unusual feeding requirements. It normally prefers to eat only live copepods in a mature reef aquarium with plenty of live rock or macroalgae. An ideal diet to start this fish on is Nutramar Tigrio Bottled Live Copepods, and vitamin-enriched live baby brine shrimp. However, live baby brine should not make up the majority of its diet. Over time, the Dragonface Pipefish may become accustomed to eating frozen CYCLOP-EEZE®, small Mysis, and Nutramar Ova.
Looking for the best food to feed your Pipefish? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
After an elaborate courtship dance, the female will attach her adhesive eggs to the smooth area on the underside of the male's trunk. A pair will regularly mate in an aquarium if well-fed. Mature males have a smooth, flat brood patch on their underside with small skin flaps on both sides.
This social species is best kept in mated pairs or groups of its own kind in an aquarium that is 50 gallons or larger. It may be kept with small, shy fish such as small gobies, seahorses, dragonets, and firefish. Aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. The Dragonface Pipefish is slightly more tolerant of corals and larger fish, but can be harmed by anemones and corals with strong stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume it, such as brain corals. The Dragonface Pipefish can also be harmed by invertebrates such as crabs, large shrimp, and large clams, but will not harm ornamental shrimp or invertebrates.
This species of pipefish has been found to consume the dreaded micro-amphipod commonly referred to as "Red Bugs" that have now become prevalent in reef aquariums that contain Acropora coral. Red Bug infestations on Acropora corals have been shown to inhibit polyp extension and growth, while causing shifts or loss in coloration. After the pipefish is accustomed to the surroundings and tankmates in the reef aquarium, it will quickly seek out these red bugs as a food source.
Approximate Purchase Size: Medium: 3" to 4" Large 4" to 5"
2-Banded Pipefish
Doryrhamphus dactylophorus
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 7"
Color Form: Black, Red, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Syngnathidae
The Banded Pipefish is a type of reef pipefish or flagtail pipefish. This fish is a stronger swimmer than its seahorse cousins and rarely comes into direct contact with the substrate. In the wild, the Banded Pipefish can be found swimming under rocky overhangs, corals, or close to the floor of its reef habitat.
The Banded Pipefish has a long, slender body with a tiny, tubular mouth and an oval, flag-like tail. The body is creamy white with dark red to black vertical rings from the snout to the tail. The tail is bright red with a white margin and dot in the center.
The Banded Pipefish is difficult to keep due to its unusual feeding requirements. It normally prefers to eat only live copepods in a mature reef aquarium with plenty of live rock or macroalgae. An ideal diet to start this fish on isNutramar Tigrio Bottled Live Copepods, and vitamin-enriched live baby brine shrimp. However, live baby brine should not make up the majority of its diet. Over time, the Banded Pipefish may become accustomed to eating frozen CYCLOP-EEZE®, small Mysis, and Nutramar Ova.
Looking for the best food to feed your Pipefish? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
After an elaborate courtship dance, the female will attach her adhesive eggs to the flat area on the underside of the male's trunk. A pair will regularly mate in an aquarium if well-fed. It is not easy to determine gender, but mature males typically have a flattened appearance due to the brood patch, while females are more round.
This social species is best kept in mated pairs or groups of its own kind in an aquarium that is 50 gallons or larger. It may be kept with small, shy fish such as small gobies, seahorses, dragonets, and firefish. Aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Pipefish will be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. Pipefish can also be harmed by invertebrates such as crabs and large shrimp.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small 2" - 3" Medium 3" to 4"; Large; 4" to 5"
3-Bluestripe Pipefish
Doryrhamphus excisus
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 3"
Color Form: Blue, Orange
Diet: Carnivore
Origin: Indonesia, Red Sea
Family: Syngnathidae
The Bluestripe Pipefish is the smallest of the reef pipefishes available in the aquarium hobby. It has a long, slender body with a tiny, tubular mouth and a round, flag-like tail. The body is orange with a blue stripe on either side running from snout to tail. The tail is maroon to red with highly variable yellow, orange, and white markings.
Bluestripe pipefish are among the hardiest pipefish, but are difficult to keep due to their small size and unusual requirements. They normally prefer to eat only live copepods in a mature reef aquarium with plenty of live rock or macroalgae. They will also accept vitamin-enriched live baby brine shrimp, but this should not make up a majority of their diet. Over time they may become accustomed to eating frozen CYCLOP-EEZE®, small Mysis, andNutramar Ova.
Looking for the best food to feed your Pipefish? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
This species is best kept in mated pairs or harems of one male and multiple females in an aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. Males are territorial and will not tolerate the presence of one another. If adding more than one bluestripe pipefish to the aquarium, it is recommended to add them at the same time.
After an elaborate courtship dance, the female will attach her adhesive eggs to the concave area on the underside of the male's trunk. A pair will regularly mate in an aquarium if well-fed. It is not easy to determine gender, but mature males typically have a flattened appearance due to the brood patch, while females are more round. With the help of a magnifying glass, opaque papillae can be seen on the snouts of mature males.
It may be kept with small, shy fish such as small gobies,seahorses, dragonets, and firefish. Aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Pipefish will be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. They can also be harmed by invertebrates such as crabs and large shrimp. These pipefish usually spend daylight hours swimming vertically behind a pipe or upside-down under a rock ledge. At dawn and dusk they can be found swimming out in the open in search of food.
Approximate Purchase Size: Small 3/4" to 1 1/4" Medium 1 1/4" to 2"
4- Janss' Pipefish
Doryrhamphus janssi
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 5½"
Color Form: Blue, Orange
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Syngnathidae
The Janss' Pipefish is a type of reef pipefish or flagtail pipefish. This fish is a stronger swimmer than its seahorse cousins and rarely comes into direct contact with the substrate. In the wild, the Janss' Pipefish can be found swimming under rocky overhangs, corals, or close to the floor of its reef habitat where it performs the role of cleaner fish and often feed on parasites and dead tissue from damsels and cardinalfish. The Janss' Pipefish may also clean other types of fish in the aquarium.
The Janss' Pipefish has a long, slender body with an elongated, tubular mouth and an oval, flag-like tail. The body is orange while the head and anterior portion of the trunk are blue. The tail is black with a white margin and dot in the center.
The Janss' Pipefish is difficult to keep due to its unusual feeding requirements. It normally prefers to eat only live copepods in a mature reef aquarium with plenty of live rock or macroalgae. An ideal diet to start this fish on isNutramar Tigrio Bottled Live Copepods, and vitamin-enriched live baby brine shrimp, however, live baby brine should not make up the majority of its diet. Over time, the Janss' Pipefish may become accustomed to eating frozen CYCLOP-EEZE®, small Mysis, and Nutramar Ova.
Looking for the best food to feed your Pipefish? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
After an elaborate courtship dance, the female will attach her adhesive eggs to the flat area on the underside of the male's trunk. A pair will regularly mate in an aquarium if well-fed. It is not easy to determine gender, but mature males typically have a flattened appearance due to the brood patch, while females are more round.
This social species is best kept in mated pairs or groups of its own kind in an aquarium that is 50 gallons or larger. It may be kept with small, shy fish such as small gobies, seahorses, dragonets, and firefish. Aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Pipefish will be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. Pipefish can also be harmed by invertebrates such as crabs and large shrimp.
Approximate Purchase Size: 3" - 5"
5-Yellow Multibanded Pipefish
Doryrhamphus pessuliferus
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care Level: Expert Only
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
Max. Size: 6¼"
Color Form: Black, Red, White, Yellow
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Family: Syngnathidae
The Yellow Multibanded Pipefish is a type of reef pipefish or flagtail pipefish. This fish is a stronger swimmer than its seahorse cousins and rarely comes into direct contact with the substrate. In the wild, the Yellow Multibanded Pipefish can be found swimming under rocky overhangs, corals, or close to the floor of its reef habitat.
The Yellow Multibanded Pipefish has a long, slender body with a tiny, tubular mouth and an oval, flag-like tail. The body is yellow with bright red to maroon vertical rings from head to the tail. The tail is bright red with a white tip and yellow dot in the center.
The Yellow Multibanded Pipefish is difficult to keep due to its unusual feeding requirements. It normally prefers to eat only live copepods in a mature reef aquarium with plenty of live rock or macroalgae. An ideal diet to start this fish on isNutramar Tigrio Bottled Live Copepods, and vitamin-enriched live baby brine shrimp, however, live baby brine should not make up the majority of its diet. Over time, the Yellow Multibanded Pipefish may become accustomed to eating frozen CYCLOP-EEZE®, small Mysis, andNutramar Ova.
Looking for the best food to feed your Pipefish? We recommend AlgaGen Tisbe biminiensis.
After an elaborate courtship dance, the female will attach her adhesive eggs to the flat area on the underside of the male's trunk. A pair will regularly mate in an aquarium if well-fed. It is not easy to determine gender, but mature males typically have a flattened appearance due to the brood patch, while females are more round.
This social species is best kept in mated pairs or groups of its own kind in an aquarium that is 50 gallons or larger. It may be kept with small, shy fish such as small gobies, seahorses, dragonets, and firefish. Aggressive, territorial, or fast-moving fish do not make good companions. Pipefish will be harmed by anemones and corals with stinging tentacles or corals that are large enough to consume them, such as brain corals. Pipefish can also be harmed by invertebrates such as crabs and large shrimp.
Approximate Purchase Size: 3-1/2" - 6"
