Family: Merulinidae
1- Horn Coral
Thorny Coral, Velvet Horn Coral, Knob Coral
Hydnophora rigida
With a bright green color and chiseled branches, the Horn Coral is an striking attraction in the reef aquarium!
The eye catching Horn Coral Hydnophora rigida is a real beauty. This coral is naturally a green and brown, or when it doesn't get enough light it turns yellow. It can also be a beautiful fluorescent green. It forms an arborescent, branching, colony without an encrusting base, though its reported some specimens do encrust in the reef tank. There are a number of descriptive common names it is known by including Thorny Coral, Velvet Horn Coral, Knob Coral, Green Horn Coral, Branch Coral, and Deer-Horn Coral.
The Hydnophora genus have several different growth forms, that can be either encrusting or arborescent. But they all have an almost "furry" appearance due to having Hydnophora. This is a unique skeletal characteristic that looks like little mounds, or bumps, on the surface of these corals. They form where the common wall between corallites intersect.
The Horn Coral is moderate to care for and easy to frag, with the biggest requirement being moderate to bright light and good water flow. In the wild, their polyps only extend at night, though in captivity they are eager feeders and extend their polyps during the day. They will eat a lot of food if offered to them, and being a fast grower they do need it. The Horn Coral is very aggressive. It should not be placed close to other corals as it can extend sweeper polyps and sting them.
Scientific name Family: Merulinidae
Species: Hydnophora rigida
Distribution / Background :
Hydnophora Coral Information: The Hydnophora genus was described by Fischer de Waldheim in 1807. The Horn Coral Hydnophora rigida was described by Dana in 1846. Some of the common names they are known for are Thorny Coral, Velvet Horn Coral, Knob Coral, Green Horn Coral, Branch Coral, and Deer-Horn Coral. They have been successfully propagated in captivity. There are around 14 species of Hydnophora, yet the most common in the trade are H. rigida and H. exesa.
Where Hydnophora Corals Are Found: The Hydnophora rigida are found around Australia in the Great Barrier Reef, Coral Sea, and North West Cape and also from Nicobar Islands to Fiji. Hydnophora genus are found from the east coast of Africa, up to the Mediterranean and Red Sea. To the east they encompass the west, north, and east coasts of Australia and all tropical waters north of Australia to Kyushu Islands and Marianas. They are found from the Lord Howe Islands, east, all the way to the Tubuai and Tuamotu Islands. They then extend northward to the Line, and Marshall Islands, which lead back to water north of Australia.
Hydnophora Coral Habitat: H. rigida inhabit lagoons and protected reef slope
Status :
The Hydnophora rigida is not on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species.
Description :
What do Hydnophora Corals look like: The Hydnophora genus have several different growth forms, that can be either encrusting or arborescent. But they all have an almost "furry" appearance due to having Hydnophora. This is a unique skeletal characteristic that looks like little mounds, or bumps, on the surface of these corals. They form where the common wall between corallites intersect. The corallites (holes) are where the tentacles are located. In the wild the tentacles come out at night, yet in captivity, they come out during the day and are not active at night.
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The Horn Coral H. rigida has thin branches without encrusting bases and can be cream or green, and can have a green fluorescence. They can have splashes of brown or burgundy and the polyps may contrast slightly. They can form a bush like stick structure that can be 3.3 feet (1 m) across.
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H. exesa can have huge colonies that are encrusting or flat, but can form thick irregular projections or branches which can be cream or green.
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H. microconos has very uniform Hydnophora and has a rounded growth structure, making for a very neat and tidy appearance. They can be cream, brown or green.
Difficulty of Care :
Hydnophora Coral Care: The H. rigida is moderate to care for with the biggest requirement being moderate to bright light and good water flow. They are eager feeders, but are are susceptible to bleaching, recession, and other ailments. Some aquarists have noted that compact fluorescent lighting is generally not sufficient for these corals to live past a year.
Foods / Feeding :
Hydnophora Coral Feeding: In the wild, Hydnophora corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive the majority of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, like other SPS, these corals use their zooxanthellae for nutrition, but they can be fed larger foods that they digest on the surface. Feed finely shredded shrimp and ocean fish along with copepods and other small crustaceans that naturally occur in established tanks. They should be fed several times a week, and they do grow fast.
Aquarium Care :
Pristine tank conditions are typically needed to keep all SPS corals. Keep the nitrate levels low, and maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels. Typically you can do water changes of 20% to 30% a month, 15% every 2 weeks, or 5% a week for SPS corals. The 5% a week also seems to really make a big difference in other SPS corals health.
The following water supplements are suggested for Hydnophora species:
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Calcium: 385 to 425 ppm. If a small poly stony (SPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 12 dKh)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: Strontium (10 for most SPS Corals), and trace Elements are also suggested.
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Horn Coral. A mature tank is recommended. Provide a refugium to produce natural foods. Most SPS corals do well with some fish for organic matter production.
For tanks with metal halides, you would position SPS corals in the mid levels. With other lighting, position SPS corals at the upper to mid levels depending on the watts used. SPS corals will show whether they are happy or not by the coloring. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Hydnophora. Hydnophora spp. are very aggressive and can extend sweeper polyps and sting other corals.
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 50 gallons (190 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: Moderate to high
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Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
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Water Movement: Moderate
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Water Region: Bottom of the aquarium
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
Hydnophora are very aggressive and can extend sweeper polyps and sting or basically eat other corals it touches. The Hydnophora genus will basically win any fight with other corals. Keep well away from other corals in the tank. They sometimes are found with a little commensal shrimp called Metapontonia fungiacola. They are fine with reef safe fish
Sex - Sexual differences No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Breeding and Reproduction
The small polyp stony (SPS) corals are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. Hydnophoras reproduce asexually as well. In the wild Hydnophoras spread from breakage due to storms and fragmentation.
Propagation is very easy for Hydnophora corals. First you need to choose a healthy coral that is not showing any signs of distress. Then, simply cut a branch at least 2" long. The best choice for Hydnophora with dense structures is to use an electric saw. Although they produce a lot of slime, they actually resist infection once they are cut. The frag should be left on its side or upside-down. keep the cut or wound completely open to water flow so it can heal. If not, the cut area can get infected. They quickly start to grow into beautiful forms. Hydnophora heal very quickly and the mother colony regrows quickly. Allow the frags to heal before moving them to a new tank. Again, give the frag ample water flow.
Potential Problems :
The Hydnophora spp. are generally disease resistant, but can still get the same illnesses that any other small polyp stony (SPS) coral can get under poor conditions. They are sensitive to "brown jelly" bacterial infections and that situation needs to be handled quickly. Recession can happen under unfavorable lighting and water conditions, and usually starts from the basal area. If you have problem with cyanobacteria or algae, keeping moderate water movement will prevent them from attaching to your Hydnophora.
Availability :
Hydnophora Corals for Sale: The Horn Coral H. rigida is easy to find at pet shops and on line. Online they can run about $38.00 USD or more depending on size and/or color.
References :
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Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
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Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
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Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
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J.E.N. Veron, Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific , University of Hawaii Press; 2 Rev Ed edition, 1993
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Bob Goemans, Velvet Horn/Thorny Coral, Hydnophora rigida, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
2-Ruffled Coral
Ridge Coral, Lettuce Coral, Merulina Coral, Ruffle Coral
Merulina ampliata
The Merulina is a gorgeous Ruffled Coral with bright contrasting colors and a peaceful demeanor.
The Merulina amphiata is commonly called the Ruffled Coral, as well as names derived from its scientific name, starting with 'amp', 'amplicata', 'ampliata', and 'amphiata'. Most of the Merulina corals are "frilly" and their common names are often descriptive of that. Some of the common names that the Merulina genus is known for are Ruffled Coral, Lettuce Coral, Ridge Coral, Merulina Coral, and Cabbage Coral.
The Merulina genus has a variety of growth forms. Most form colonies that have a ruffled plate or fanlike growth formation. But Merulina's can also develop tall columns looking like a forest from the top, or short less developed columns that create a ruffled plate formation. The Ruffled Coral in the picture above has the 'frills', but is a bit knobbier than other varieties.
The colors of the Ruffled Coral M. amphiata are commonly green, pink, brown, and cream. Some colonies can possess several of these colors. These corals also have sweeper tentacles which come out at night. They are located on the coral's edges or margins and can reach 3" (8 cm).
Only an expert aquarist should attempt to keep this coral, it is not recommended for beginners. Although difficult to care for the Merulina species are some of the most beautiful corals, coming in blue, red, purple, green and pink. TheMerulina genus comes from lagoon type environments, thus indicating that this should be an easy SPS to care for. On the contrary, it is very difficult to keep and doesn't adjust well to changing conditions.
Propagation of M. amphiata has not been successful in captivity, due to this coral's low survival rate. To compound the problem, they grow slowly. Typically wild caught specimens are available, although great care and research should be done before attempting this coral. Eventually propagators will be able to figure out their specific needs for long term care and this coral may become easier to keep.
Scientific name Family: Merulinidae
Species: Merulina amphiata
Distribution / Background :
Merulina Coral Information: The Ruffled Coral Merulina amphiata was described by Ellis & Solander in 1786. TheMerulina genus was described by Ehrenberg in 1834. Some of the common names this genus are known for are Ruffle Coral, Lettuce Coral, Ridge Coral, Merulina Coral, and Cabbage Coral. They have not been successfully propagated in captivity.
Where Merulina Corals Are Found: The Merulina amphiata are found around Australia on the Great Barrier Reef, Coral Sea, Lord Howe Island, and to the Houtman Abrolhos Island. Merulina, as a species, are found in the Red Sea, Indian Ocean, and the west Pacific Ocean from the East China Sea all the way to the west, north, and east coasts of Australia, then east toward the Line Islands.
Merulina Coral Habitat: M. amphiata are found at depths down to 131 feet (40 m). They are found mostly in lagoons, but can also be found in most habitats around the reef.
Status :
The Merulina amphiata is not on the IUCN Red List for Endangered Species.
Description:
What do Merulina Corals look like: The Merulina genus will form colonies that have a ruffled plate or fanlike growth formation. They also can develop columns that looks like a forest when viewed from the top. Some species have columns that are less developed and short, and grow with a ruffled plate formation. Thus both the column and plate-like formations can be found in the same colony of the same species. The grooves or valleys that are within the plated growth formation radiate from the center of the colony and form circular or arced growth lines. Their valleys are short and straight, yet can vary in length with different species. These corals also have sweeper tentacles which come out at night. They are located on the coral's edges or margins and can reach 3" (8 cm). At night the polyps are extended while feeding.
The M. ampliata has similar growth patterns. Although their valleys are straight and short, they spread like a fan and then separate. Their columns are much more defined and closer together, reaching up to 4" (10 cm). The Ruffled Coral can form flat, plate-like formations as well.
The Ruffled Coral can be purple, pink, pale green, or brown with pale margins and contrasting polyps that are white, pink, brown, and rust. More colors may develop as this coral is aquacultured. The colors of the Merulina genus can be bright or pale pink, brown, green, cream, violet, lavender, and blue. Some colonies can posses several of these colors.
Merulina Coral Life Cycles: All of the Merulina growth forms can be altered by the environment they are found in. They can grow over 3 feet (100 cm), but it is unknown how long they live.
Difficulty of Care :
Merulina Coral Care: The M. amphiata is very difficult to keep in captivity. They need to be far away from any other corals. They also need very strong lighting and specific water flow to keep the surface clear of debris and algae. The water flow requirement has not been quite figured out yet, but moderate flow has been suggested.
Foods / Feeding :
Merulina Coral Feeding: In the wild, Merulina corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive the majority of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms and microscopic food particles from the water column and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, they do well in well-feed reef tanks, accepting very fine particulate foods. Like other SPS, they feed from the water column and use their zooxanthellae. They can be fed microplankton and brine shrimp twice a week.
Aquarium Care :
Pristine tank conditions are typically needed to keep all SPS corals. Keep the nitrate levels low, and maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels. What this particular group of corals needs is unknown. Typically you can do water changes of 20% to 30% a month, 15% every 2 weeks, or 5% a week for SPS corals. However, the Merulina genus doesn't adjust well to changing conditions so the 5%, less water changed more often, may be best. The 5% a week also seems to really make a big difference in other SPS corals health.
The following water supplements are suggested for Merulina species:
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Calcium: 385 to 425 ppm. If a small poly stony (SPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow.
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 12 dKh)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1350-1500. Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: Strontium (10 for most SPS Corals), and trace Elements are also suggested.
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Ruffled Coral. A mature tank is recommended. Keep the substrate off the corals and provide a refugium to produce natural foods. Most SPS corals do well with some fish for organic matter production.
For tanks with metal halides, you would position SPS corals in the mid levels. With other lighting, position SPS corals at the upper to mid levels depending on the watts used. SPS corals will show whether they are happy or not by the coloring. Make sure that no other corals or even algae can come in contact with your Merulina. Merulina spp. are mild mannered and will end up loosing any chemical warfare.
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 10 gallons (38 L) or larger
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Marine Lighting: Very high
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Temperature: 73° - 81° F (23° - 27° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
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Water Movement: Unknown, but moderate/turbulent is suggested
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Water Region: Middle of the aquarium
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
Merulina are not aggressive corals, nor do they posses strong defenses. Because of this, they must be placed away from any aggressive or defensive coral. The Merulina genus should probably be kept in a species specific environment.
These SPS corals will be easily out competed by any other coral for space. The tissue of the Merulina genus is easily irritated. Do not house sand sifting gobies since getting any substrate on the coral's surface will generally result in necrosis, and eventually may succumb to RTN. Keep crabs or anything else that likes to sit on corals off of of these corals.
Sex - Sexual differences :
No sexual difference in appearance is known.
Breeding and Reproduction
The small polyp stony (SPS) corals are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. SPS corals reproduce asexually as well. In the wild SPS corals spread from breakage due to storms and fragmentation.
Merulina corals have not yet been propagated in captivity. For most SPS species, you need to first choose a healthy coral that is not showing any signs of distress. Then, simply cut a branch at least 2" long and glue the frag to a plug or rock. You can use the 2-part epoxy or underwater putties. A little tip, don't glue frags upright since they will grow faster on their sides.The slime that the coral will exude should not come in contact with any other corals and gloves are suggested. Give the frag ample water flow.
Potential Problems :
The Merulina spp. will succumb to bleaching, necrosis, RTN, and they are very hard to keep alive in captivity.
Availability:
Merulina Corals for Sale: The Merulina genus is easy to find online. Online they can run about $49.00 USD or more depending on size and/or colors. They have not yet been propagated in captivity.
References :
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Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
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Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
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J.E.N. Veron, Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific , University of Hawaii Press; 2 Rev Ed edition, 1993
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Bob Goemans, Ruffle/Ridge Coral, Merulina ampliata, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
Family: Pectiniidae :
1-Chalice Coral
Plate Coral, Scroll Coral, Flat Lettuce Coral
Echinophyllia aspera
A reef keeper's dream, the Chalice coral is easy to keep and has the most remarkable, bright and vivid, coloration!
The Echinophyllia genus is not only one of the easiest to keep of the Pectiniidae family, but the most colorful. In the wild they inhabit numerous habitats at various depths and water flow. Their adaptability to these multiple elements contributes to this being an easier coral to care for. In fact, if the edge of the coral is placed against any surface, like the glass of the aquarium, it will actually encrust onto it.
The shapes of the Echinophyllia species are generally an encrusting low rider formation of cups and folds. The middle of the coral can have significantly raised corallites that look like raised round, warty bumps. Their colors are endless, pretty much any combination, especially in the aquacultured varieties. The oral discs are usually a different solid color, contrasting with the colorfully mottled fleshy body.
Chalice Coral Echinophyllia aspera is an encrusting coral and has knobby centers. They form whorls, or circular formations, along with tiers or tall bump like protrusions. The outer perimeter of the coral, where growth takes place, is delicate. They can be mottled in a few or several colors, including green, red, brown, pink, purple, and blue with a green oral disc.
The Chalice Coral is easy to care for, but good water quality is very important for growth and health. Like all small polyp stony (SPS) corals, it gets much of its nutrition from the zooxanthellae that lives in it tissues, but can also be fed microplankton, cyclopeeze and other similar sized foods. However, it only feeds at night, when its feeder tentacles are extended.
The Echinophyllia species are slow growers, yet have been successfully propagated in captivity, helping to keep wild colonies in tact. This genus was often over looked in the past due to the drab looking colors they exhibited when first shipped to retailers. Those who did buy this drab lumpy coral found that over a few weeks they colored up beautifully. Now the best colored specimens can pull well over $100.00 USD.
Scientific name Family: Pectiniidae
Species: Echinophyllia aspera
Distribution / Background :
Echinophyllia Coral Information: The Echinophyllia genus was described by Klunzinger in 1879. There are approximately 30 nominal species. Of those, eight are true species with five of them being from Australia. Some common names these corals are know for are Plate Coral, Scroll Coral, Chalice Coral, and Flat Lettuce Coral. The Chalice coral Echinophyllia aspera was described by Ellis and Solander in 1788 and is known as the Chalice Coral.
The Echinophyllia genus have been successfully propagated in captivity. Aquacultured names these corals are know for are usually due to their color and the propagators choice, such as Mixed Berry Chalice, Crazy Orange Chalice, Pink Eyed Chalice Coral, Green Eyed Chalice Coral, and Green Echinophyllia.
Where Echinophyllia Corals Are Found: The Echinophyllia genus are found within the entire range of the Red Sea extending down the east coast of Africa, east to the coasts of Australia, and as far south as Lord Howe Island. From there their range extends all the way east to Tuamotu Islands, then north to the Line Islands. Then they extend west to the Marshall Islands and then in a north westerly direction to the southern tip of Japan. All the waters within that circumference, with the exception of a few bay areas, are where they are distributed
Echinophyllia Coral Habitat:The Echinophyllia genus habitat includes most reef environments, but they are mostly found on lower reef slopes, lagoons, and fringing reefs.
Status The following species from the Echinophyllia genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:
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Chalice coral E. aspera: Least Concern (LC)
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E. enchinata: Least Concern (LC)
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E. nishihirae: Near Threatened (NT)
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E. orpheensis: Least Concern (LC)
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E. patula: Least Concern (LC)
Description :
What do Echinophyllia Corals look like: The Echinophyllia genus are generally an encrusting low rider formation of cups and folds. The middle of the coral can have significantly raised corallites that look like raised round, warty bumps. The flat middle, where the oral disc is located, is a raised area 1/2" (1.27 cm) or larger. Some are less dramatically structured with little whorls and slight bumps. The ends or outer perimeter of the coral are delicate.
The colors of the Echinophyllia genus are pretty much any combination, especially the aquacultured varieties. The oral discs are usually a different and solid color from the colorfully mottled fleshy body.
The Chalice Coral E. aspera is encrusting and has knobby centers. It forms whorls, or circular formations, along with tiers or tall bump like protrusions. The corallites are raised and toothed, but not embedded. They can be mottled in a few or several colors, including green, red, brown, pink, purple, and blue with green oral discs.
Difficulty of Care Echinophyllia Coral Care: The E. aspera s easy to care for. Good water quality is very important for growth and health.
Foods / Feeding :
Echinophyllia Coral Feeding: In the wild, small polyp stony (SPS) corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive the majority of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, they do well in well-feed reef tanks. Like other SPS, they use their zooxanthellae for nutrition. it does not require direct feeding, but can be fed microplankton, cyclopeeze and other similar sized foods at night when feeder tentacles are present.
Aquarium Care :
Pristine tank conditions are typically needed to keep all SPS corals. Keep the nitrate levels low, and maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels. Typically you can do water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly or 5% weekly. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth. When keeping this coral, using carbon may prove useful and beneficial for the other corals. Additions of trace elements are also suggested.
The following water supplements are suggested for Echinophyllia species:
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Calcium: 380 to 430 ppm. If a small poly stony (SPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. (approx. 1272 ppm is suggested) Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters :
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Chalice coral , along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
The Echinophyllia corals keep their original color under various lighting intensities, including compact fluorescent bulbs. They should be kept under moderate to bright light with moderate water movement to keep them healthy. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Echinophyllia.Echinophyllia spp. are aggressive, and will sometimes extend sweeper tentacles that will sting nearby corals.
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 29 gallons (115 L) and up, depending on size.
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Marine Lighting: Moderate to bright
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Temperature: 74° - 82° F (23° - 27° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
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Water Movement: Moderate, enough to keep debris off
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Water Region: All areas of the aquarium
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
The Echinophyllia genus are aggressive, forming stinging sweeper tentacles on some nights. The Chalice Coral needs to be kept away from other corals as it will sting any that it can reach. These corals can have a a sweeper tentacle length of up to one foot. Although the sweepers do not come out every night, be sure to take their reach into consideration when placing them.
Sex - Sexual differences
Unknown
Breeding and Reproduction :
The small polyp stony (SPS) corals are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. Echinophyllias reproduce asexually as well. In the wild Echinophyllias spread from breakage due to storms and fragmentation.
Propagation is very easy for Echinophyllia corals. The frag should be taken from an already healthy and settled colony. It is done with very clean cuts in the skeleton of the mother colony with a fresh razor blade. Cut straight in from the outer edge about 1", remove and at 1" away from the original cut, cut parallel in about 1" and snap off the section in-between each cut. Make sure to mount the frag horizontally and put in a clean frag tank to recover. Wearing protective gloves is important so as to not form a reaction to them.
Potential Problems :
The Echinophyllia spp. are generally disease resistant, but do not tolerate poor water conditions very well. They can get the same illnesses that any other small polyp stony (SPS) coral can get under poor conditions. Protozoan brown jelly infections are common in this group. You want to prevent this infection from spreading. Siphon off any "jelly" before lifting the coral out of the tank, then use a baggy to collect the coral, keeping the infection contained. Put it into an isolation tank that is separate from the main tank.
Here are a few treatments for brown jelly:
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A 3 minute freshwater dip, with the water being the same temperature and PH as the sea water the coral is in.
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Iodine baths using one drop of Lugol's iodine per 5 gallons of sea water may help, but the bath needs to last around 15 minutes and aeration needs to be high. Some have applied iodine directly to the affected area before putting in the iodine bath.
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Use tetracycline in sea water baths that last up to 5 hours a day. The coral must be put in fresh sea water in-between each treatment and treatment water must be discarded.
Availability :
Echinophyllia Corals for Sale: The Chalice coral E. aspera is very easy to find at pet shops and on line. Online they can run from about $30.00 to $300.000 USD depending on size and/or color.
References :
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Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
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Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
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Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
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J.E.N. Veron, Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific , University of Hawaii Press; 2 Rev Ed edition, 1993
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Charles J. DeVito, The Easily Over-looked Echinophyllia, Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine, Copyright 2003
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Bob Goemans, Plate Coral, Scroll Coral, Chalice Coral, Flat Lettuce Coral, Echinophyllia aspera, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
2-Green Eyed Cup Coral
Elephant Nose Coral, Peacock Coral, Chinese Lettuce Coral
The Green Eyed Cup Coral is handsome, especially with those special 'nose' protrusions that distinguish the Elephant Nose Corals!
The Mycedium genus is very hardy and one of the easiest to keep corals of the Pectiniidae family. It has a unique appearance that is very popular with many aquarists. The "bumps" on the surface of the coral resemble down turned noses, and on very colorful specimens, green eyes. The coral grows in a flat or plate form and is usually oriented in a vertical position. The protruding corallites on the face of the coral angle outward towards the perimeter, hence its common names, Green Eyed Cup Coral, Chinese Lettuce Coral, Peacock Coral, and Elephant Nose Coral.
Though the Mycedium species' common color is gray, thus dubbing this genus as "Elephant Nose Coral", they can be extremely colorful. They can be a mix of light or dark gray, brown or green, and colors like yellow, red, and pink. A gray that looks almost blue, has also been seen. Not only that, but the aquacultured colors of yellow, fluorescent green, red, and many more, make this a very desirable coral. Some can even have a blue color if not under strong lighting.
The hardiness and unique appearance of the Green Eyed Cup Coral Mycedium sp. makes it an excellent choice for the reef aquarium. It is easy to moderate to care for as long as proper lighting and water movement is given. They are tolerant of lower levels of light, but will grow better with stronger lighting. Like all small polyp stony (SPS) corals, it gets much of its nutrition from the zooxanthellae that lives in it tissues, but can also be fed brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, cyclopeeze, and other similar sized foods. However, it only feeds at night, when its feeder tentacles are extended.
The Mycedium species have been successfully propagated in captivity, helping to keep wild colonies in tact. This genus was only occasionally available in the past, but with captive propagation they are now easy to find. Aquacultured specimens can be very colorful and vivid, and the best colored specimens can easily run $50.00 USD and more.
Scientific name Family: Pectiniidae
Species: Mycedium sp.
Distribution / Background
Mycedium Coral Information: The Mycedium genus was described by Oken in 1815. There are three nominal species, but only two of them are true species, they are M. elephantotus and M. robokaki. They have been propagated in captivity. Names these corals are know for are due to their natural color and shape, as well as propagator given names. A few names are Elephant Nose Coral, Peacock Coral, Chinese Lettuce Coral, Green-eyed Cup Coral, Chalice Coral, Tyree True Robokaki, Mycedium Coral, and Plate Coral.
Where Mycedium Corals Are Found: The Mycedium genus are found in the Indo-Pacific Oceans and the Red Sea.
Mycedium Coral Habitat: The Mycedium genus habitats includes shallow front reef areas, but also deeper areas near edges of overhangs and steep drop offs. They are all usually oriented in a vertical position and are found at depths of 20 - 131 feet (6 - 40 m).
Status The species from the Mycedium genus are on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species:
-Green Eyed Cup Coral, Peacock Coral Mycedium elephantotus: Least Concern (LC)
-Chinese lettuce coral Mycedium robokaki: Least Concern (LC)
Description :
What do Mycedium Corals look like: The Mycedium genus grow in a flat, laminar plane, or plate form. Colonies can have several "plates" growing on different planes. Their corallites are raised and tubular, but angled outward, having an almost human nose shape. The specimens from deeper waters form more of a plate like growth with a "grainy" or rough surface. They are all usually oriented in a vertical position. They have spiny septa protruding from the corallites, along their entire length, but these are only visible when the coral is not expanded. They have clear sweeper tentacles that appear at night.
The colors of the Mycedium genus can be a mix of light or dark gray, brown or green and colors like yellow, red, pink, and a gray that looks almost blue, have also been seen. The oral discs can sometimes be red or green. Due to the color gray being common with this genus, the term "Elephant Nose Coral" was dubbed.
- Green-eyed Cup Coral, Peacock Coral, Elephant Nose Coral - M. elephantotus: This coral has the "nose" like corallites. its surface has what looks like tiny ribs, or like straight "wrinkles". They radiate outward and continue over the corallite "noses", as if they got in the way. This coral can be brown, gray, green or pink with red or green oral discs and at times can have a contrasting color around the margin of the colony.
-Chinese lettuce coral, Elephant Nose Coral - M. robokaki: This coral has similar features to M. elephantotus. One difference is the edge, which looks like large scalloped shapes instead of being more even. The other difference is the colors, they are brown and or green with bright pink oral discs. Some grays can have a blue appearance under moderate lighting.
Difficulty of Care :
Mycedium Coral Care: The Mycedium sp. are easy to moderate to care for as long as proper lighting and water movement is given.
Foods / Feeding :
Mycedium Coral Feeding: In the wild, small polyp stony (SPS) corals have developed several feeding strategies. Through a symbiotic relationship with a marine algae, known as zooxanthellae, they receive the majority of their nutrients. They also capture planktonic organisms, food particles from the water column, and can absorb dissolved organic matter.
In captivity, they do best in well-feed reef tanks. Like other SPS, they use their zooxanthellae for nutrition. They can also be fed microplankton, cyclopeeze and other similar sized foods at night when feeder tentacles are present.
Aquarium Care :
Pristine tank conditions are typically needed to keep all SPS corals. Keep the nitrate levels low, and maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels. Typically you can do water changes of 20% a month, 10% biweekly or 5% weekly. It has been noted that 5% weekly water changes replenish many of the needed additives. With higher concentrations of coral with calcareous skeletons, there may be a need put in additional additives to maintain proper levels for good growth. When keeping this coral, using carbon may prove useful and beneficial for the other corals. Additions of trace elements are also suggested.
The following water supplements are suggested for Mycedium species:
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Calcium: 380 to 430 ppm. If a small poly stony (SPS) coral does not have enough calcium, it will not grow. (Seachem makes a calcium additive that states 385 as sufficient)
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Alkalinity: 3.2 TO 4.8 MEQ/L (8 to 11 dKh, 10 is recommended)
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Phosphates: 0, zero. Phosphates are the worst of all and all corals hate them.
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Magnesium: 1200 - 1350. (approx. 1272 ppm is suggested) Magnesium makes calcium available, so if your calcium is low, check your magnesium levels before adding any more calcium.
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Strontium: 8 - 10
Aquarium Parameters:
A well-feed live rock/reef environment is what is needed for your Green Eyed Cup Coral , along with some fish for organic matter production. A mature tank is recommended.
The Mycedium corals must be placed or mounted vertically. They should be kept under moderate to bright light with moderate water movement to keep them healthy. Make sure that no other corals can come in contact with your Mycedium.Mycedium spp. are aggressive, and will sometimes extend sweeper tentacles that will sting nearby corals.
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Minimum Tank Size / Length: 29 gallons (115 L) and up, depending on size.
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Marine Lighting: Moderate to bright
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Temperature: 74° - 83° F (23° - 28° C)
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Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.023 - 1.025
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Water Movement: Low to moderate
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Water Region: All areas of the aquarium
Compatibility and Social Behaviors :
The Mycedium genus are aggressive, forming stinging sweeper tentacles at night. The Green Eyed Cup Coral needs to be kept away from other corals as it will sting any that it can reach. These corals can have a a sweeper tentacle length of up to one foot. Although the sweepers do not come out every night, be sure to take their reach into consideration when placing them. It is possible they may inhibit the growth of soft corals.
Sex - Sexual differences Unknown
Breeding and Reproduction
The small polyp stony (SPS) corals are male and female and can reproduce both sexually and asexually. In the wild they reproduce sexually by releasing eggs and sperm at the same time, resulting in a fertilized egg which then forms into a free-swimming planula larva. Eventually the planula larvae settles onto the substrate, becoming plankters. This then forms a tiny polyp which begins to excrete calcium carbonate and develops into a coral. Planula larvae are extremely vulnerable to predation, and very few survive. Mycediums reproduce asexually as well. In the wild Mycediums spread from breakage due to storms and fragmentation.
Propagation is easy for Mycedium corals. The frag should be taken from an already healthy and settled colony. It is done with very clean cuts in the skeleton of the mother colony with a fresh razor blade. Cut straight in from the outer edge about 1", remove and at 1" away from the original cut, cut parallel in about 1" and snap off the section in-between each cut. Make sure to mount the frag vertically and put it in a clean frag tank to recover. Wearing protective gloves is recommended.
Potential Problems :
The Mycedium spp. are generally disease resistant, but do not tolerate poor water conditions very well. They can get the same illnesses that any other small polyp stony (SPS) coral can get under poor conditions. Protozoan brown jelly infections are common in this group. You want to prevent this infection from spreading. Siphon off any "jelly" before lifting the coral out of the tank, then use a baggy to collect the coral, keeping the infection contained. Put it into an isolation tank that is separate from the main tank.
Here are a few treatments for brown jelly:
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A 3 minute freshwater dip, with the water being the same temperature and PH as the sea water the coral is in.
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Iodine baths using one drop of Lugol's iodine per 5 gallons of sea water may help, but the bath needs to last around 15 minutes and aeration needs to be high. Some have applied iodine directly to the affected area before putting in the iodine bath.
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Use tetracycline in sea water baths that last up to 5 hours a day. The coral must be put in fresh sea water in-between each treatment and treatment water must be discarded.
Availability :
Mycedium Corals for Sale: The Green Eyed Cup Coral Mycedium sp. is very easy to find at pet shops and on line. Online they can run from about $50.00 to $100.000 USD depending on size and/or color.
References:
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Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
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Harry Erhardt and Horst Moosleitner, Marine Atlas Volume 2, Invertebrates (Baensch Marine Atlas), Mergus Verlag GmbH, Revised edition, 2005
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Eric Borneman, Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History , TFH Publications, 2001
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Anthony Calfo, Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1 Edition 2: Reef Gardening for Aquarists, Reading Trees; 2nd edition, 2007
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J.E.N. Veron, Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific , University of Hawaii Press; 2 Rev Ed edition, 1993
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Bob Goemans, Plate Coral/Green-eyed Cup Coral/Elephant Nose Coral/Peacock Coral, Mycedium elephantotus, Animal Library, Saltwatercorner.com
