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Groupers in the Home Aquarium  : 

courtesyto : www.tfhmagazine.com  ... Author: Jim McDavid

 

 

Large, colorful, and full of personality, groupers can make fantastic additions to tanks that are big enough to house them properly. 

 

We’ve all seen them at one time or another, perhaps on television, at a public aquarium, or even at your local fish store. Beautiful, charismatic, and robust, the groupers of the family Serranidae offer much to those with enough space to accommodate their basic needs. Easy to keep and full of personality, one is hard-pressed to name a more trouble-free, interesting, and rewarding group of fish for the larger home aquarium. One might be right for you!

 

 

 

 

I’m interested, tell me more!

 

The family Serranidae is quite large and diverse, with members ranging from a few inches in size to over 9 feet—large enough to swallow a diver! Within the family are several subfamilies. This is a diverse group of fish that includes aquarium favorites such as anthias, basslets, and hamlets.

 

Here I want to focus on the subfamily Epinephelinae, specifically on the smaller, aquarium-suitable representatives that are easily obtainable in the hobby. The subfamily includes some true monsters that are best left in the ocean, but there are also plenty of species that can be housed in a 200-gallon-plus aquarium, and some are even small enough to make do with slightly smaller accommodations.

 

The common names of these fishes can be confusing. They are all, regardless of genera, properly called basses. Only members of the genus Epinephelus, Mycteroperca, and a few other genera are generally referred to as groupers by scientists, while members of the genus Cephalopholis are often called hinds. As with all common names, this is purely arbitrary, and the hinds were at one time groupers in good standing. I’ll lump the hinds and groupers together here, as their care, general morphology, and behavior are more or less identical.

 

These fish are robust, moderately elongate ambush predators with large, voluminous mouths capable of swallowing rather large prey items in relation to their size. Ranging in color from drab to stunningly vibrant, even the less-garish species possess a personality that endears them to many keepers, including yours truly. Often when peering at a grouper in a large marine aquarium, you’ll find it actually looking back at you, as if wondering just exactly what you’re up to!

 

So, what do I need to know?

 

Let’s begin with the tank, which for a prospective grouper keeper is the first limiting factor. It’s very important that the aquarist is realistic when considering buying one of these specimens at his or her local fish store. Though they are stunning animals, they are often victims of classic impulse purchases by aquarists with accommodations that are far too small.

 

Although most species you’re likely to come across—and definitely all those appropriate for home aquaria—are small by grouper standards, the species I’ll focus on here are still large by aquarium standards and need plenty of room. This is both to provide the needed swimming space and to make sure dissolved nutrients are kept at reasonable levels between water changes.

 

While small individuals are often offered for sale, they can grow quickly, and you shouldn’t get one thinking you can get a bigger tank down the road. You probably won’t, at least not in time.

 

As mentioned above, 200 gallons is a good minimum target if one is planning on keeping a grouper with a handful of other appropriate fish, but a few of the smaller species such as C. formosa or E. onguscan live quite comfortably in a 120-gallon or larger community aquarium, whereas larger species such as the lyretail grouper Variola louti, the spotted coral grouper Plectropomus maculatus, and the tomato hind Cephalopholis sonnerati all need accommodations of greater than 300 gallons.

 

With regard to tanks, larger is always better, especially when tankmates are considered. The aquarist should steer clear of narrow show tanks and look for aquariums with a front-to-back measurement of at least 24 inches for most species.

 

While not aggressive by marine fish standards, they can have their moments, especially with other, similarly sized groupers. Make sure to provide plenty of shelters in the form of caves or overhangs. Not only will these fish often select such locations for their home base, but you’ll also find that the fish will be much less shy if it knows it can hide if it wants to. Additionally, out of sight is out of mind with regard to territorial disputes, and plenty of rocks will mitigate aggressive interactions with tankmates.

 

The above requirements, along with the need to provide plenty of swimming space and the average size of these fish, should make the need for a very large tank obvious.

 

Be realistic with regard to your ability to accommodate the fish at or near its full adult size. A small 3-inch coral hind or miniatus grouper C. miniata is easy to accommodate in a 40-gallon tank, but shortly down the road you’ll have a fish on your hands that has outgrown its quarters and then some.

 

What about waste management?

 

An ever-important consideration, careful planning in the filtration department is a must with these fish. A small specimen is of no particular concern, and no extra measures need be taken on the part of the aquarist. As it grows, however, it places an increasingly large load on the filtration system, and managing the nitrogen cycle can become a real challenge.

 

An 11-inch honeycomb grouper E. hexagonatus puts away a considerable amount of food, with a waste output to match! At a single feeding, a fish this size can easily eat two 8-inch squids whole, and a proportional amount of waste is produced as a result.

 

Unless the system is very large, with a preponderance of live rock, a large protein skimmer, and only a few other fish, you’re going to need supplemental filtration to handle the significant waste produced by these hefty predators. Every tank is different with regard to the bioload it can sustain, but it is likely that the husbandry practices employed to handle the waste loads of say a few damselfish, a sixline wrasse, and a flame angel will not suffice when dealing with a grouper or two and the companions that are likely to be kept with it. Predatory fish are messy, and will place a strain on any system that is not carefully managed.

 

While live rock and decent water circulation is a good start, I would strongly recommend that the keeper employ a protein skimmer, as well as a means of mechanical filtration such as a large canister filter, or perhaps a large power filter or two, to help with the large amounts of waste produced. Although power filters are not typically used on marine tanks nowadays, they do a fine job of removing particulates and are easily cleaned, and cleaning is something you’ll do often when keeping the fish at or near adult size!

 

On that note, and perhaps most importantly, regular water changes must be carried out. How much and how often will depend on the bioload and the filtration being employed on the tank in question, and this can range as high as 50 percent every week! Indeed, with regard to the husbandry of these fish, the filtration should be regarded as a stopgap to keep water parameters in line between water changes, rather than the primary means of controlling water quality, as is normally the case with other marine tanks.

 

Which one do I pick?

 

The behavior of the various species of groupers, including the hinds of the genus Cephalopholis, are more or less identical, thus an exhaustive description of the various species is pointless here. Your choice will come down to the size of your aquarium, the other fish you wish to keep in the system, and your personal preferences.

 

Assuming the tank is properly set up and established, and a quarantine tank of suitable size is also ready and waiting, you can start looking for your new pet fish. Groupers are resilient fish and thankfully handle shipping well, so most specimens are still in fine shape by the time they reach your local store. Look for good color, and make sure there are no off-color patches or spots on the skin or fins. Look for pits on the head or behind the eyes, which could be indicative of lateral line erosion. Also, make sure the fish is alert and wary.

 

A healthy individual is attentive and will look back at you in a way you don’t experience from most other marine fish. The aquarist doesn’t have to be too concerned about the size of the individual he or she is shopping for, as both very young and larger, more mature individuals adapt readily to captivity, but I do recommend that fish no larger than 6 inches be purchased.

 

The groupers of the genus Cephalopholis are some of the most desirable and commonly available members of the group. Hardy and drop-dead gorgeous, they make perfect residents for a larger marine system. Most species are relatively small, in the 9- to 16-inch range, and all are hardy and easy to keep. There are species available that will be at home in aquariums from as small as 6-feet long and up.

 

Some standout species include the miniatus grouper C. miniata (also known as the coral hind or coral trout), which grows to 18 inches, and the blue-spotted grouper C. argus (also known as the peacock hind), which attains a similar size.

 

The blue line grouper C. formosa is another species of note. Under 14 inches, it’s one the best species for small tanks in the 135-gallon range.

 

Among the groupers of the genus Epinephelus are some great choices as well, with E. ongus, the specklefin grouper, being one of the best bets. Topping out at about a foot, this beautiful species is another great choice for a tank of at least 135 gallons. E. hexagonatus and E. merra are similar in size and desirability, if somewhat harder to find.

 

How do I add one to my tank?

 

When introducing a grouper into your display (after a six-week quarantine period, of course), it’s a good idea, if practical, to rearrange the decor in order to break up existing territories in the tank. This is especially true if any somewhat aggressive fish are already established in the system, such as an angelfish or triggerfish. It is doubly important if another grouper is already in residence!

 

This puts all of the fish in a new, uncertain environment, eliminates established territories, and mitigates aggressive territorial responses from the current residents. Introducing the new fish at night after the lights have been out for a time goes further to reduce aggressive interactions. A grouper is often very shy initially, frequently dashing into a cave or crevice, the keeper seeing only glimpses of it for a number of days. Over time it will become bolder, spending more and more time in full view.

 

Contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, if the tank is at least in the 180-gallon range, it’s often possible to keep two or more groupers together, even those belonging to the same genus (note: notthe same species!) in a single display. By far the best way to accomplish this is to add the fish at the same time. This way the fish in question are again on equal footing, neither has an established territory, and both are somewhat disoriented at suddenly finding themselves in new surroundings. Rearranging the decor as mentioned above will be of help here in regard to dealing with fish already in the system.

 

If a grouper is already established in the system, it is almost imperative that the newcomer be a bit larger than the resident. The established fish will invariably be irritated at the new arrival in his territory, and will hold the upper hand in the inevitable confrontation. If the newcomer is somewhat larger, he will be less stressed by and better able to cope with the irate behavior of the resident grouper. This displaying, gaping, chasing, and ritualized combat starts out rather intensely by both individuals, and decreases in frequency and severity over a matter of hours. By the next day, both fish are usually over it, and life can proceed as normal.

 

What about other tankmates?

 

These fish, while far from meek, are more or less on the easy-going side with regard to temperament. While aggression among conspecifics is intense to the point where keeping two of a given species is usually impossible, interspecific aggression is usually minimal, especially where other non-serranids are concerned.

 

The main concern the aquarist has is selecting companions that will be too large to be swallowed by the grouper. While this might seem a straightforward consideration, these fish can surprise you in this regard, so err on the side of caution when picking tankmates. All members of the subfamily Epinephelinaecan put away a meal at least a third of their own body length, and some species, especially members of the genus Epinephelus, can swallow even bigger meals than that.

 

When selecting tankmates, keep the likely adult size in mind for all species that you’re considering, as well as the growth rates of all fish concerned. For instance, a lionfish will grow much more quickly than most grouper species. Thus, a juvenile grouper and lionfish of equal sizes living together with no issues will result eventually in the grouper becoming a meal for the lionfish! As with all things in the world of marine aquaria, planning is key.

 

How should I feed my grouper?

 

Feeding is one of the best parts of keeping a grouper! These fish are out and out predators, carnivores in full—no algae flakes please! An often-overlooked aspect by lazy keepers, variety in the diet is essential, and every effort should be made on the part of the aquarist to make sure the fish in his care receive a varied array of food offerings. This, more than anything, is the key to a long, disease-free life. Indeed, these fish should enjoy a lifespan of at least 12 to 15 years in captivity.

 

A visit to the seafood counter at your local grocer will reveal a multitude of choices. Of particular use are scallops, shrimp, and squid, as they are for most hinds already in ready-to-feed, bite-sized morsels. Fish meat such as halibut and snapper can also be utilized.

 

It should be noted, however, that all predators, be they reptiles, birds, cats, or fish, need whole food items in order to obtain all the nutrients they require, not just meat. In other words, organs, bones, etc., are all part of their natural diet. This means the keeper must offer some kind of complete animal item at least once or twice a week, and these items should be as varied as possible. Possibilities are frozen baitfish of various species, which are often available at bait stores, or whole shrimp and crayfish. Frozen silversides are commonly available at aquarium fish retailers as well. Soak food items in a vitamin supplement a few times a week. Additionally, there are frozen preparations available that are already vitamin fortified, which make excellent food for these fish.

 

If you have the space and want the most beautiful, hardy, long-lived, and interesting centerpiece fish around, don’t hesitate to give the groupers a look. Hardy, long-lived, charismatic, and beautiful, a more rewarding marine tank inhabitant is hard to find! 

 

Groupers  :  

Miniata Grouper Species Profile  : 

 

The miniata grouper (aka coral hind) (Cephalopholis miniata) is the member of a family that is known more to people for their culinary qualities than the fact they make great additions to your marine aquarium. While the miniata grouper may taste good, groupers can become engaging pets that can live for decades in captivity. The miniata grouper is one of the most stunning members of the grouper group, and, unlike many in this family,Cephalopholis miniata stays relatively small (a 14-inch specimen is a giant).

 

Difficulty: The miniata grouper, like many groupers, is very durable. The miniata grouper is a suitable fish for the beginning hobbyist and interesting enough to engage the most experienced fishkeeper. Nutrition is an important consideration. Stay away from freshwater feeder fish, as they not only lack the fatty-acids needed by seawater predators, some (e.g., feeder goldfish) can cause thiamin deficiencies. Chopped seafood (shrimp, squid, marine fish flesh) and frozen foods for carnivores are your best bet. Feed these foods to your miniata grouper every day or every other day (monitor the grouper’s weight, and adjust ration size and feeding frequency accordingly). Overfeeding can be as big a problem as underfeeding, as a captive miniata grouper can suffer from fat build-up around the internal organs, which can shorten its life span.

 

Physical Description: The miniata grouper is very red — it can be bright red to orange, and it is peppered with bright blue spots. (Small juveniles have few spots or may lack them altogether.) The Cephalopholis miniata is streamlined, being built to sprint short distances to hunt its unsuspecting prey.

 

Range: Cephalopholis miniata is a wide-ranging fish that occurs from the Red Sea and the east coast of Africa, east to the Line Islands. The miniata grouper is usually found at depths of less than 120 feet but has been reported down to a whopping 490 feet. The miniata grouper prefers a variety of coral-rich habitats, and unlike some others in the genus, Cephalopholis it tends to prefer Clearwater reefs.

 

Compatibility: The miniata grouper is a fish-eater that will make short work of any piscine tankmate that is small enough to swallow whole (in the wild, this fish has a particular fondness for the lyretail anthias, Pseudanthias squamipinnis). The miniata grouper’s gluttony shows no bounds, as it has also been known to eat cleaner wrasses, which are normally impervious to predation. The miniata grouper can also be a bit of bully, behaving aggressively toward other fish, especially if it has lived a long time in a small aquarium. If a miniata grouper sees a new fish as an intruder its territory, it may beat the new fish with its tail and incessantly nip at it. It is best to add less aggressive fish to the aquarium before you add your miniata grouper. As with most reef fish, the miniata grouper is going to be particularly intolerant of close fish relatives (e.g., other groupers), and they will fight with each other. Some species that make good tankmates include moray eels, large angelfish, surgeonfish, rabbitfish, triggerfish, pufferfish and porcupinefish. Cephalopholis miniata is also a threat to ornamental crustaceans, including cleaner shrimp and anemone crabs.

 

Aquarium Conditions: The miniata grouper will become a voracious, personable pet once it is fully acclimated to its aquarium home. But until that time, it can be very shy, hiding whenever a human approaches the aquarium. For this reason, provide the miniata grouper with caves or crevices (also called “bolt holes”) that are large enough for it to dash into when it is frightened. Keep the miniata grouper at a pH of 8.1 to 8.4, specific gravity of 1.019 to 1.025 and a water temperature of 76 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Care Considerations: Remember, while small for a grouper, the miniata grouper can still grow to more than a foot long. So make sure you have an aquarium that is large enough. The miniata grouper is a big, messy eater, therefore, a good protein skimmer, chemical filtration and regular water changes will help keep your miniata grouper in optimal condition.

 

Breeding: The miniata grouper and larger groupers rarely if ever spawn in home aquariums.

 

 

 

 

 

Groupers Species list : 

 

Most Groupers grow up to 12 inches in captivity and frequently outgrow the average-sized aquarium. The diet of these fish consists of fish, crustaceans, and cephalopods. A large aquarium with adequate hiding places is necessary to maintain Groupers in captivity. It is advisable to keep one species of Grouper per tank, as these fish may become aggressive towards other tankmates and themselves. 

1-Leaflip "Clown" Grouper
Pogonoperca punctata 

 

Description:

 

 The Leaflip Grouper, also called the Clown Grouper because of the clownlike markings is greyish in color and speckled with white dots. Their most distinguishing characteristics are the five black, triangular spots that are located along the dorsal side of the fish. This grouper will prey upon most smaller fish and motile invertebrates. These groupers have been known to attempt eating fish you might not think they could swallow. Clown groupers should be provided with plenty of both open swimming room and rock caves and tunnels. They have large appetites, and a meaty frozen diet is recommended. 


Recommended Tank size: 

 

minimum 100 gallon
Food and diet:carnivorous, feed a varied diet of meaty foods


Reef Compatability: 

 

Excellent, but will eat shrimps and fish its own size or smaller.
Level of Care: for Advanced Aquarist Only
Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Caution: 

 

This species secretes or releases toxins when stressed or injured that may kill fish in the aquarium. Aquatic Connection will not accept responsibility for any loss that may occur should this animal poison the aquarium. 


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

2-Miniatus Grouper
Cephalopholis miniata

 

Description: 

 

Bright red with iridescent blue spots on the body and head. Juveniles may lack spots or have fewer, larger spots. Like its cousins, the miniatus is a durable species that will thrive in captivity. Although it can be shy when initially introduced to the aquarium, with time it will spend more time in the open, becoming quite bold in time. Only one Miniatus grouper should be kept per aquarium, as they are prone to fight with one another. It will eat any fish that they can swallow whole and behave aggressively towards tankmates that intrude into its preferred hiding places. It will also eat ornamental shrimps and crabs. The Miniatus Grouper is a large and very hardy fish which requires a large aquarium. It can be compatible with other fish provided they are too large to be eaten. It should not be trusted around invertebrates or small fish. 
Recommended Tank size: 

 

minimum 100 gallon


Food and diet:

 

In the wild this reef predator commonly attacks schools of reef-dwelling fish. In the aquarium, freeze-dried krill soaked in Selcon, feeder goldfish, or squid are acceptable. 


Reef Compatability: 

 

Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

3-Panther Grouper
Cromileptes altivelis

 

Description: 

 

A very popular grouper and saltwater aquarium fish, this is perhaps one of the easiest to care for of all available marine aquarium fish. A fast growing fish that needs plenty of food. Large specimens are commonly used to cycle new aquariums. This grouper is rarely aggressive, definitely more passive than most groupers and will ignore its fish tankmates, unless they are small enough to swallow whole.


Recommended Tank size: 

 

minimum 100 gallon


Food and diet:

 

carnivorous, feed a varied diet of meaty foods


Reef Compatability: 

 

Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: 

 

Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4"

4- Red Flag/V Tail Grouper
Cephalopholis urodeta

 

Description: 

 

Red V-Tail Grouper, Cephalopholis urodelus, comes from the Indo-Pacific and from the Hawaiian Islands. It is also known as the Flag Tail Grouper and Banded Tail Sea Bass. Its red body reflects sheens of grey and green in different lighting. The "V-Tail" portion of its common name comes from the two distinct nearly-iridescent stripes on its tail fin. With the potential to grow to nearly a foot in length, the Red V-Tail Grouper should be kept only in larger aquariums. In the home aquarium, it has little interest in corals, but may likely dislodge corals as it darts after its next meal. It may eat any fish that will fit into its mouth. Crustaceans, being part of its natural diet, will likely be eaten.
Recommended Tank size:

 

 minimum 100 gallon


Food and diet: 

 

carnivorous, feed a varied diet of meaty foods
Reef Compatability: 

 

The Red Flag Grouper is not commonly kept in a reef-style aquariums


Level of Care: Easy
Acclimation Time: 3+ hours
Approximate Purchase Size: Small: up to 2-1/2"; Medium: 2-1/2" to 4"; Large: 4" to 6"; XLarge: 6" to 8"

5-Cherry Louti Grouper
Variola louti

 

Description: 

 

The Cherry Louti Grouper in the wild will reach lengths of over 24 inches therefore it requires a great deal of space to grow. We recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. Its coloration begins with a cherry red at the dorsal that fades into a pale yellow underneath. Its uniquely-shaped V-swept tail is another prominent feature. Although it can be quite shy when initially introduced to the aquarium, with time it will spend more time in the open, becoming quite bold. Like all groupers, it will eat any fish that it can swallow whole and will behave aggressively towards tank mates that intrude into its preferred hiding place.


Recommended Tank size: 180 gallon


Food and diet:carnivorous, feed a varied diet of meaty foods


Reef Compatability: Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 3"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6" ;XLarge 4" to 6"

6-Saddleback Grouper
Plectropomus laevis

 

Description: 

 

A very rare grouper that has just showed up the last few years in the aquarium trade. It is a fast growing fish that needs plenty of food. Although it can be shy when initially introduced to the aquarium, with time it will spend more time in the open, becoming quite bold. Only one Louti Cherry Grouper should be kept per aquarium. Like all groupers, it will eat any fish that they can swallow whole and behave aggressively towards tankmates that intrude into its preferred hiding places. It will also eat ornamental shrimps and crabs. Extremely easy to care for.


Recommended Tank size: minimum 100 gallon


Food and diet:carnivorous, feed a varied diet of meaty foods


Reef Compatability: Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

7- Blue Spotted Grouper
Cephalopholis argus, Hawaii

 

Description: 

 

Blue spotted Groupers are found living near coral reefs throughout the Indo-pacific where they hunt for small fish or invertebrates to consume. This species is often referred to by a number of names within the marine aquarium hobby, including: Blue Dot Grouper, Argus Grouper, Peacock Hind or Peacock Grouper. The Bluespotted Groupers body is a mottled brown and tan color with six verticle white bands running from just behind the pectoral fins to the tailfin. The white bands can appear anywhere from very prominent to almost completely faded depending on the aquarium environment and the fishes current disposition. The fins are a dark blue color, with a lighter blue outline and the entire body is covered by bright blue dots. 


Recommended Tank size: 

 

This is a larger predatory fish species, that is suitable only for very large (100 gallons or more) fish-only aquariums with other semi-aggressive to aggressive fish species. While this fish is considered easy to keep, it does require excellent water conditions in addition to a large aquarium to be properly housed. Bluespotted Groupers appreciate a lot of live rock with plenty of large caves and rock crevices for them to rest on and swim about. Since Bluespotted Groupers eat large meaty items, they create a lot of waste products, therefore it is important to have a very strong biological filter setup to handled the load this and other large predator species put on a filter system. This species should only be kept with other large semi-aggressive to aggressive fish species, as they will eat any fish or ornamental invertebrates that they can fit in their mouth. They can be aggressive towards other larger fish, but are usually not too bad in this regard and nothing like the level of aggressiveness seen in species like the Undulated Triggerfish.


Food and diet:(Carnivore) Thrives on meaty items. Offers such things as krill, shrimp, and feeder fish. Crustacean flesh is also a good option. Feed 2 to 4 times a WEEK.


Reef Compatability: Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

 8-Blue line Grouper
Cepholopholis 

 

Description: 

 

Blue Line Grouper or as they are also commnly known as the Boenacki Grouper or Blue Line Sea Bass are an Indo-Pacific species that dwells in and around coral reefs and rocky areas. This species is best suited for FO (fish only) or FOWLR (fish only with live rock) aquariums with other large aggressive or semi-aggressive fish species. rizontal lines that cover the entire body and its dorsal and tailfins.
Recommended Tank size: Blue Line Groupers require large aquariums with excellent filtration to accomodate their size and feeding habits. As Blue Line Groupers eat large meals they end up producing a lot of waste products, which means they need excellent filtration (especially biological and mechanical) in order to keep the water quality high. While this species is not harmful to corals, it is best suited for fish-only aquariums as it will eat any fish that it can fit in its mouth and will eat most any type of crustacean. Blue Line Groupers live near the fringes of coral reefs in the wild, they should be provided an aquarium environment that contains both live rock formations and open swimming areas. They do best with other large predatory species (triggerfish, eels, sharks, etc.) or with adult semi-aggressive species (large angelfish, tangs, etc.). 


Food and diet: (Carnivore) Thrives on meaty items. Offers such things as krill, shrimp, and feeder fish. Crustacean flesh is also a good option. Feed 2 to 4 times a WEEK.

Reef Compatability: Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow.


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: 1-1/2" to 2-1/2"; Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

 9-Polleni Grouper
Cepholopholis polleni

 

 

 

Description: 

 

 

The Polleni Grouper is rarely seen in the aquarium trade because it is a deep-water fish and bolts into hiding when approached by divers. It should be housed in an aquarium with a cave in which it can hide. This species is shy when acclimating and will defend its hiding place from intruders. It will eat any fish small enough to fit into its mouth, as well as many ornamental crustaceans.The Polleni Grouper is found on reef slopes and dropoffs in deep water. It is often seen in caves and reef recesses, swimming upside-down under the roof of the cave. It is usually found at depths greater than 150 feet.Like all groupers, the polleni had a voracious appetite and is easy to maintain. 


Recommended Tank size: 

 

Polleni Groupers require large aquariums with excellent filtration to accomodate their size and feeding habits. As Polleni Groupers eat large meals they end up producing a lot of waste products, which means they need excellent filtration (especially biological and mechanical) in order to keep the water quality high. While this species is not harmful to corals, it is best suited for fish-only aquariums as it will eat any fish that it can fit in its mouth and will eat most any type of crustacean. Polleni Groupers live near the fringes of coral reefs in the wild, they should be provided an aquarium environment that contains both live rock formations and open swimming areas. They do best with other large predatory species (triggerfish, eels, sharks, etc.) or with adult semi-aggressive species (large angelfish, tangs, etc.). 


Food and diet: (Carnivore) Thrives on meaty items. Offers such things as krill, shrimp, and feeder fish. Crustacean flesh is also a good option. Feed 2 to 4 times a WEEK.


Reef Compatability: Safe with corals but will eat ornamental shrimps and crabs and any fish it can swallow. 


Level of Care: Easy


Acclimation Time: 3+ hours


Approximate Purchase Size: Small: up to 2"; Small/Medium: 2" to 3";Medium: 3" to 4" ;Large 4" to 6"

 

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